Hoping for some help on this no spark problem.

The first thing I would check ---

With ignition switch turned ON, would measure voltage actually being received at the coils.
Which should ideally match voltage measured across the battery posts.

An ignition coil can't fire unless it's receiving voltage.

Good Fortune!

Found a wiring diagram that you (Patton) had posted a while back (or at least you posted a link for it)... It was actually for the prior year (the E1) but they didn't change much for the E2. Came in real handy. Seeing as other's are coming on here with a similar problem I'll repost the link here.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...w&gid=141&Itemid=108

Thanks for all the help guys... Bike just fired up... It was in the "run/stop" switch... Hard wired in a toggle switch and a new button for the starter... A quick fix till I can make a more permanent solution.

Of course now that it
s running it's raining viciously out there... Oh well, never stopped me before.

Neither rain nor sleet nor even snow will stop my KZ on the go

650ed wrote:

Mjolnir613 wrote: I'm having a very similar problem with my 81 kz650 CSR. Bike ran fine when I got it, did a few things and didn't start it for a bit, now it gets no spark. Someone told me to check the points plate? I have no idea where that is and what to look for though. I have the Clymer manual but I didn't find anything in there, assuming I was looking for the wrong term or something.

Edit: It may also be of note that my main fuse is overheating so much its melting the connectors and the plastic of the fuse box. It starts to heat up as soon as I put it in, even if I'm not trying to start it or anything.

Did what things?

Took off the exhausts the cleaned them up, took out the spark plugs to inspect them, removed the carbs and had them cleaned. I figured it had to have something to do with me removing the spark plugs, but can't figure out why they would stop working just from being removed and put back in. I even tried new plugs, and still no spark.

martin_csr wrote:

Mjolnir613 wrote: I'm having a very similar problem with my 81 kz650 CSR. Bike ran fine when I got it, did a few things and didn't start it for a bit, now it gets no spark. Someone told me to check the points plate? I have no idea where that is and what to look for though. I have the Clymer manual but I didn't find anything in there, assuming I was looking for the wrong term or something.

Edit: It may also be of note that my main fuse is overheating so much its melting the connectors and the plastic of the fuse box. It starts to heat up as soon as I put it in, even if I'm not trying to start it or anything.

I have the same bike. It has electronic ignition w a pulsing coil plate instead & located under the right side engine cover cap (no points). Use an impact wrench to remove the 2 screws - the hand type will work fine, just install the correct bit & hit it with a hammer... otherwise you'll mess up the screws most likely. There probably isn't anything to check on the pulsing coil, though, but you could lubricate the timing advancer.

This Z650 page has a pdf manual for your bike. jarlef Z650
I find the Clymer manual a bit cumbersome to use for the CSR, since you have to go back n forth to the supplement for those models.

As for the main fuse, take care of that first... sounds like you have a short. Raise the seat, remove the side covers, & start looking. If nothing is amiss there, you'll have to remove the headlight or the fuel tank & start looking in those places.... melted or chaffed wires, wires grounded to the frame, insulation rubbed off a wire, stuff like that. MFolks has posted some good stuff on going thru the electrics.

After you get the fuse problem taken care of, to address your no spark issue, you'll have to do some ignition checks. The manuals outline that stuff. Check the coils' resistance - primary & secondary. Check the coils for physical damage, cracks etc.

One thing you can do is to redo the spark plug wires at all points from the coils to the plugs. The connections become poor from oxidation over time. The wires unscrew from the coils - unscrew the ribbed compression boots, then the wires. If there's a lot of the white crusty stuff, nip off the ends a tad, but not too much so that the wires don't end up too short. Report back w a new topic.

Thanks Martin, you're always a ton of help. Next good day I'll go check those out and see whats up. I remember the guy I bought it from said something about him and his mechanic thinking they had a bad coil, they replaced it and still had whatever problem I can't remember they had, so he gave me the old coil which he said was still good when I bought it. I wonder if this is the same issue he was having.