KZ440 Starting and Cutoff Issues!! PLEASE HELP!!

Ok I have been workin on this KZ for a year noe.

This KZ had new plugs (28 gap) , fresh oil and filter, new battery, a NOS set of carbs put on, new throttle cable, new clutch cable, new throttle tube, new clutch mech (lever), new tires, brakes..etc etc...You get the idea...and that was aside from all the custom work. I have simplified wire harness down to minimal. If it never started or ran then I would question harness but that fact that it does start sometimes leads me to believe that I did that part correct? Though I can always be seriously wrong!

The bike runs fairly nice, considering the pod filters, BUT I have some starting issues....its intermittent. Sometimes is starts right up, others it jus cranks and cranks. I removed the pickup and had it tested by my local shop...they said its fine with a reading of 46 on the meter? I replaced ignitor box with a used one thinkin maybe that was the issue, issue still presented. Now this is where it gets even more frustrating....my key will sometimes turn off engine, sometimes not! It cuts power to lights but doesnt turn off engine. :S I have to pull ignitor box plug or pull a plug wire off to stop. I do have ignition wired into hot to act as cutoff. Should I wire into ground to act as cutoff instead. Is there any reason that might cause engine to run with key cutoff in off position....cdi stuck open? Sorry if that sound dumb, Im jus at a loss here.

ANY HELP, AND I DO MEAN ANY HELP WOULD BE OF HELP.

I have this bike I have poured my soul into and cant ride cuz I dont wanna be stranded anywhere!
I took this pic right before I installed springer seat and rear brake hardware.

If this is the original ignition switch, it probably need replacement. Put vibration and the number of times it's been turned off and on, and that's a lot of wear.

On these older bikes, this needs to be done:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........


Make sure the battery connection are clean and tight,check the Negative(-) cable where it fastens at the engine mounting bolt, check the Positive(+) cable from the battery where it goes to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.