dyna coils greenies 3ohms kawasaki kz 1000 ltd

You can actually get the coils cheaper at Z1E, right at this link.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1306

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1306

I have the same bike, an 82 KZ1000LTD model. I am getting ready to replace my coils and wires also. I will use the dyna 2.2 ohm coils. Otakar, where did you get the blue spark pug wire from? It looks like you still have the resistor caps on. My resistor caps are fairly new, so I wanted to reuse them but I wanted to use something other than just the standard black 7mm wire.

I manufacture custom wires for these. My new wires are 100% non resistor. The wires you see are the old stile that I used to make and only 7mm, the new ones are with permanent blue silicone plug caps. My new cables are 8mm with an additional 1mm blue heat sheath reinforcement. They have black coil caps and blue plug caps. They are 100% pre-made and you do not have to cut anything and install your own caps. With these wires and gray coils you can run as much as .060 plug gap. I normally recommend .040-.050 for street use. The new wires are $29+$4.95Post.

Dyna solid core 7mm spark plug wires in black, red or yellow are available at Z1 Enterprises, reasonably priced, excellent quality, and come with the plug caps already built in.

www.z1enterprises.com/SearchResult.aspx?...spark%20plug%20wires

Good Fortune!

You still have to cut them to length and crimp on the coil caps which is a bitch if you don't have a crimping tool.

I was wrong not a stator plate like a dirt bike has, but the ignition plate thats wired to the igniter. First time working on a street bike! I'm use to working on dirt bikes. But I did order the grey dynas 2.2, but in the mean time I found my old stock coils will run them for now, they seem fine. My one problem was i did'nt have the advance ignition rotor set at the "tec" position when I went and reassembled it. The other problem I'm having is the plug the wires go into. I have to get some electrical grease and slide them into the appropriate matching holes. The one wire slide out on me, because i guess i did'nt push it in far enough. It runs like a bear now. Thanks a bunch! Manuals only tell you so much!

Print this out for ignition coil wiring:

Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different).

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS, any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

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Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s 650‘s and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.

I am working on a customers 1980 KZ1000 LTD. He has a new dyna, he wants put in. The stock coils are black on the bike. He don't under$tand about matching coils. He don't want to buy the green coils. He wants the engine running first. It did run last year. I want to fire it up first and do compression test. before he spends more $$. And I waste time on it.

Another Question? what about the CERAMIC BALLAST that goes across the top of the coils.
I have not dealt with that in years???

This engine has the factory electronic ignition on it now.

I know this is old news, but now I need a refresher course.

Thanks:unsure:

The ballast(actually a resistor) was designed to lower input voltage to the coils, most riders bypass/wire around it for more spark energy. The stock coils were at best marginal, add years,heat & vibration and it's time for new ignition coils,sparkplug wires & caps.

Like Otakar mentioned, put a set of new 2.2 Gray(Grey?) coils with new wires & caps and the spark energy should be improved.

The stock Kawasaki ignition is much better than the Dyna-S or Dyna-3 ignitions. Those ignitions were intended to be better than points and that is all. Unless you go to the GM module ignition mod by "Loudvox" or to the $300++++ ignitions it is a waste to use a Dyna replacement ignition and will actually hinder performance. An OE Kawasaki IC ignition with Gray coils is the best low cost upgrade.

The ballast resistor was installed when it was discovered that the points were arcing too much and burning out too fast. If you did not mind readjusting your point gaps all the time, you could remove the ballast resistor and get a pretty massive spark at the plug. As far as the IC ignitor is concerned, the coils have to mach the ignitor or risk overheating it and burning it out.

So is it ok to use the stock black coils with an original Kawasaki IC ignition? I bought new wires for mine but haven't installed yet, I also had to by the wire splicers since you can't remove the original wire from the original coils. Is this a smart route or should I just by new coils too and have coils that can actually have the ignition wires removed from them?:blink: