1980 LTD650 Fuse Box

With the key in the"ON" position I only have power at the MAIN fuse. Should I have power at the HEAD and TAIL fuses as well?

Year and model would help people know what you got. Put it in your signature for future posts.
The main fuse supplies power to the ignition switch from the battery. Check it on both sides as they fail from heat. Power should return to the Fuse Box after switch is turned to run, but it must be getting there first. Probably a White wire heading from the Main fuse to the Ignition switch.

As stated in the title, its a 1980 LTD 650 (KZ650E). I have full power to the bike, the bike starts and runs, I just have a short in the running light circuit. I have head light, but no tail light and running lights on the front turn signals. I also have no gauge lights. The tail light works when the ignition is in the "PARK" position with the key turned to the far right position. My question is should I have power at the "HEAD" and "TAIL" fuses when the key is in the ON position?

Yes, when the ign switch is in the "on" position, all three fuses should have 12v on them.

To be precise, each fuse should have 12v on each end of the fuse. If it only has 12v on one end, that means the fuse is blown.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

10. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html

My list of symptoms is as follows:

1. Replace main fuse - fuse blows as soon as battery is connected, even with the key in the "OFF" position.

2. Head light works high and low beam. No tail light, gauge lights, no front running lights.

3. Turn signals all work, brake light works from rear foot brake and front brake, tail light works in "PARK" position on the ignition.

4. I get a less than one volt reading on the frame of the bike (about 0.015) UNLESS I unplug the RIGHT handle bar switch from the main harness.

5. Replacing the right handle bar switch changes nothing!

6.No broken/frayed/shorted wires evident on the right handle bar switch (even with the plastic covered peeled away from the individual wires).

7. As stated before, no power to the "HEAD" or "TAIL" fuse in the fuse box.

8. Might end up trading it for a keg of Bud Light!

Also, forgot to mention that I tried a different fuse box as well.

Mellvis wrote: ...Replace main fuse - fuse blows as soon as battery is connected, even with the key in the "OFF" position....

Perhaps a short in the wire or connector between the 20 amp fuse and the ignition switch, or a short inside the ignition switch itself.

Here's the wiring diagram from FILEBASE.



Good Fortune!

Symptom #1 "Replace main fuse - fuse blows as soon as battery is connected, even with the key in the "OFF" position."


I'm betting you have a short circuit. I would leave the battery disconnected and begin testing at the main fuse by checking for continuity between the main fuse and ground. If you find continuity that confirms a short between the hot (positive) fused wire and ground, so you will need to trace that hot wire to see where it is contacting something it shouldn't. For example, the insulation may be worn through under the tank or where the wires go into the headlight shell, etc. If you remove the fuse and test of the main fuse clips, you can tell which direction to begin your search. Once you determine the direction, you should be able to isolate the area of the short by unplugging bullet connectors (one at a time) and testing the wires for continuity to ground. I would isolate and repair this problem before considering the other symptoms you describe.

Kind of ashamed of this......

So, I thought I would try a hot wire from the fuse box to the tail light. Got to fumbling around and got power at the tail light fuse. Who knew fuses could get corrosion and not make connection? Now I have a tail light. Could that have caused enough resistance to pull too much amperage through the main fuse and call it to pop?

I believe so, as the headlight and tail light should come on as the engine starts. Do you have the Kawasaki supplied "Reserve Lighting System"? It's a small black box with 6 wires going to it. The system will automatically change from high or low beam if you're out riding and low beam burns out.

The high beam will come on at reduced voltage so not to blind on coming drivers.I believe it will also turn on a light on the instrument panel indicating headlight problems.

I suspect your ignition switch has either burned electrical contacts or they are starting to wear out & it's time to replace the switch. Try www.z1enterprises.com for a new switch.

Higher resistance reduces current, so no, corrosion won't cause the fuse to blow from high current.

Corrosion, if it's just the right amount, can cause the fuse holder to get hot, which can heat up the fuse and melt the fuse from heat instead of current. This usually takes time, though.

If it was blowing instantly, there would probably be a short somewhere, as Ed said. A shorted rectifier can cause that, but the short won't usually go away if it's in the rectifier.