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I will by gum fix this stock '81 kz550 horn
- newOld_kz1000
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- FlimFlamFlibbityFlee !! BoonFryedShickaMuhZee !!
I am going get it working. All of us have been through this -- you get a near-stock vintage machine that you have whipped into shape and the vintage horn is silent. I have boiled vintage horns in hot water and malt vineger. Did that on my kz650 CSR. It makes a quiet murmur, no more.
The dang motorcyle horn is a simple beast. There just isn't much to it. What is the secret.
I am dead set against buying a replacement. I am determined to keep this vintage machine
100% original except for tires oil and gas, air and oil filter.
Bike only has 14k miles and the gas tank and side covers and seat look almost brand new.
What can I do to keep this bike original and revive the horn? I have messed with the little nut on other bike horns and that was not successful. What is the trick, what form of mechanical/fluids/cleaning agents/hexes/etc. might succeed here?
I do not want to alter this bike, it is a piece of history that deserves the honor of being kept original.
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- MFolks
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1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- newOld_kz1000
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MFolks wrote: Does the horn have a good ground? Tried powering it by putting the Negative power to the case and 12 volts to the terminal?
I will try that 1st thing tomorrow morning, it has 2 terminals, 2 wires leading to the horn -- one for ground, one for power -- does it matter which terminal I put the + 12volts to, or do I need to worry about the wiring diagram? I always figured, perhaps wrong I don't know, that you could attach either wire to either terminal and a bike horn should work.
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- MFolks
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1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- newOld_kz1000
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- FlimFlamFlibbityFlee !! BoonFryedShickaMuhZee !!
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MFolks wrote: Looking at my bikes wiring diagram, I don't think it matters as to where the + and - go.
I don't recall ever seeing the horn being fuse protected, though I'm no electrical expert, they probably pull so little current that it's not needed, I may just disassemble and clean it if it's all wired okay, but there is nothing on a horn to go bad -- no rubber bits, no moving parts -- gotta figure this out once and for all. Putting a new horn on a vintage bike, I refuse to do that anymore.
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- loudhvx
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The horn is likely toast, or there is a bad ground, as mentioned already.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- GPz550D1
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Ebay horn
1981 KZ550-D1
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- newOld_kz1000
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loudhvx wrote: Horns pull very large current. That is why they are almost never fused.
The horn is likely toast, or there is a bad ground, as mentioned already.
Thanks loud, question for you, what part of the horn goes south? When I have taken them apart before there is just a nut, washer, sometimes a large washer, and on the back side there is a small nut but beyond that, no moving parts that I have seen -- are there internal parts on these horns that fail?
I thought that the big washer vibrates on the large metal disc to make the sound.
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- loudhvx
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1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- z1kzonly
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The original 72-73Z1's horn had screws, instead of rivets to hold the body together.
You could unscrew the body and file the contancts, like ignition points.
Try and find an original Z1, screwed together horn. Nowadays. They bring big dollars on ebay.
Take your body apart, grind off the rivets, look inside.
Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.
I SOLD OUT! THE KAW BARN IS EMPTY.
More room for The Old Girl, Harley 75 FLH Electra Glide,
Old faithful! Points ign. Bendix Orig. carb.
Starts everytime!
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- MFolks
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1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- hocbj23
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