Blown fuse. This leads to what?

I lost the spark on the spark plugs, I assume this is a wiring problem since the plugs are fine, the bike isn't turning over, and I tested the plugs against the bike frame.

Some oil on the plugs though...


Ok I have a blow fuse but I don't know what It leads to. Here's is a diagram and I circled the part in red and I was wondering its purpose and why it just ends with no connection?

Also and help on getting a better diagram would be awesome. 82 440 ltd.

A blown fuse is a protection device to keep your wiring from burning up/bike fire. What is the rating of the fuse that let go? If it's just for the ignition system, then troubleshooting should be confined to just that circuit, but if it's main fuse(20-30 amps)a more in depth search will be needed.

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

Ok I found a better diagram. And found that the blown fuse lead to no where, it was a spare connector...

I have no idea where to start but I'll give it a try haha

Some bikes have an aux. circuit for heated gloves & vests, yours may have the same thing. No as to why it blew? Could be rubbing through the insulation somewhere has caused this.

Someone may have taken the fuse from the accessory fuse holder, and swapped it with a blown fuse in the main panel. Check all of your fuses, the Main fuse sounds like the culprit. Check the wiring and Clips at the panel for Heat damage and corrosion.

Motor Head wrote: Someone may have taken the fuse from the accessory fuse holder, and swapped it with a blown fuse in the main panel. Check all of your fuses, the Main fuse sounds like the culprit. Check the wiring and Clips at the panel for Heat damage and corrosion.

I used an ohms meter on the 3 major fuses. I got a beep from the front, and rear harness, but the main harness I got nothing... But I still get lights and it trying to turn over..

In your first post you said that is was not turning over, now it is?And you have lights? Well then the Main fuse would be intact. So you woulds have to see the diagram to look at the Ignition switch contacts, to figure what wire colors are latched together when the switch is in the on position. Then you should see which wire color is for the coils, red/ yellow, probably. Back trace this circuit. An Ohm test puts very, very little actual current flow through a circuit. If you really want to find out if a circuit will handle some current flow then you should use a test light or other small device that will pull some Amps. A spare H4 headlight bulb will pull 4+ Amps, ignition should be somewhere close to this.