Any benefit to installing Dyna over stock?

Z1E also has repro OE coils for very cheap. www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2857 I would not bother with those just like I would not bother with OE coils. Just use the Dyna gray coils and it will be a much better choice.

I didn't notice they had those too. I think I will be going with the Dyna greys. I can't find any pictures but I am guessing the Dyna grey mount right up without modification to the KZ750?

You might have to drill some new holes in the coil mount plates and MIGHT have to bend the plates a bit, but that is about all. This is what I had to do on my GPZ1150 build. You can look at page 11 on this post. kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/169462-bui...0?limit=20&start=200

kz750saskatoon wrote: I didn't notice they had those too. I think I will be going with the Dyna greys. I can't find any pictures but I am guessing the Dyna grey mount right up without modification to the KZ750?

Let us know if the Dyna grey coils make any difference ... if you take that route.
The OEM wires are multi strand whatever that is and I always use caps with the lowest resistance and B8ES (no R) plugs. If you think you have a spark issue then it might be worth while to measure the voltage at the coils and if low clean the electrical connections or dare I say it - do the coil mod

I had actually had done the coil power mod, somewhat. I made up a wire using 10ga with a lug on one end, a 15A fuse, and then 'Y'-ed it off to two female spade connectors. I ran this from the positive terminal on the starter solenoid (this is the main connection from the battery to the rest of the bike) and then to the coils.

I couldn't quite tell if there was an actual difference or if I imagined it. It seemed to start much better, that is for sure.

Then I was heading out for a ride and it died on the side of the highway out of town, right on a ramp. Battery was dead enough to not turn the bike over but still had the headlights on. Took it home on a trailer, charged the battery, removed the new 10ga wire and it has been running fine for four days now.

It seemed like the battery was not getting charged by the alternator. When I got the battery back in it, the voltage would increase with RPM so I am not sure what is happening, just yet. I have a weekend of testing to do pretty quick so I will do a more thorough checking of the alternator voltages and resistances.

I got a bit off-topic, but I will be replacing the coils in the next month or so.