coils

So I recently ripped all my wiring out of my 78 1000 (because im sick of wiring demons :evil: )

Anyway I broke down a few months ago blew a coil and then melted down my dyna s

so I replaced the dyna s with another one, when i bought the last one I bought new coils and wires in 09'. So one of the two old coils was still good. I replaced the old two part regulator/rectified with a modern one piece new fuse panel, battery and all new wire and connectors. Put gas in it and it fired right up.

Went riding for about 2 hours and ran better than ever!!!

Woke up left for work and got just about there and dropped 2-3 the coil test fine as far as I can tell but no spark? The coil is old (1995 on the back) so I figure its bad...

My question is I have a set of coils for my 94 f2 that are 3 ohm sitting on my bench, can I use a modern coil with an old bike with some type of mod? Or do I need to just buck up and buy another set of dyna 3 ohm coils?

I have no bad wires and no ground anywhere I shouldnt I made sure to do it right why would I blow the same side coil twice? before I buy another set of coils is there some ways to test my coil to see if I blew something internally on the output side?

Any help would be great I have exhausted all my own ideas....

You can use the coil so long as it is the correct impedence (ohms) on both sides.

You should have three grounds. The large main ground to the engine case, a primary ground into the wiring harness/fuse box, and ground directly to frame as well. It also doesnt hurt to splice the regulator ground to frame also.

Coils die from use. Heat stress and rattles, being left on/overheating, it happens.

You can turn your ignition off, and then check to see if there is any voltage/current going to the coils with a meter. Should be none.

Testing your dead coil would be just a check with ohm meter on secondary (output side between plug wire outputs). heat the coil up good and hot with a hair dryer and check to see if it is while things are hot that is fails.

Coils need as much fresh air as they can get, so no setups with heat shielding under the tank, or in front of them, etc.

Good luck!

Check that the Dyna is putting out, a 5 watt test light across the primary side of the coil will blink when starting/ running. This will show that both the positive voltage is there and the Dyna is operating the dwell time to ground.

What might cook a coil: I recall the dyna driver doesn't hold the voltage across the coil continulously (if it's working right), it only does it for a set time interval. If the driver fails and puts the full 14V across that 3 Ohm coil continuously, it will be dissipatimg about 70W and it will COOK pretty fast.

OK so I am a dumbbell I direct wired the ignition system to the coils one at a time and started with the side I knew had spark. The coils work fine and switching to my f2 coils works too

Now I cannot find any variance on any wire, continuity, voltage anything from the two different pick ups on the ignition, all the coils and wires, same plug over and over just wont work on the 2-3 side pick up?

Is it possible that my timing is off and I'm not getting spark? To me mechanically that makes no sense (but other than the dyna s being bad) I can come up with no other logical reason, and its still not logical. Even if the timing is off it would still spark just not run right?

Is my ignition just bad? Or am I missing something obvious...

And my big stupid butt threw away my old dyna with one fried pickup or I could just steal one off that and give it a swap :sick:

Please someone tell my i'm a retard and missing something simple

New sparkplugs? What brand are you running? I've had brand new NGK's fail right out of the box, so I switched to Denso's W24-ESU's gapped to 0.032" and no problems. Also checked the sparkplug caps(if you have them)? They should have 5K ohms when tested with a multimeter unscrewed from the sparkplug wires.

I just looked up the trouble shooting guide from dyna and I think the bottom line is I have a failed pick up I'm going to return it tomorrow. All the test say no other result...

I thought plugs, wires or coil first...

the same plug fires on 1-4 and on all four wires and both coils, all four ports but wont fire on any wires or coil port on 2-3 pick up? So end result I guess we'll find out tomorrow?

Moral to this story I think is going to be dont buy used parts even from a trusted source!

I bet even though it was cheap ($65) you still get what u pay for should have just ordered a new one from Z1E...

Yes, the Dyna S's do seem more prone to sudden failure for no apparent reason. More so than the factory electronic ignition , at least. However, the Dyna company has been really really good about replacing defective units. I would give them a call and see what they say. If you bought it used, they probably can't help, but it may be worth the call, especially if you tell them it's the second one to go bad.

One thing to remember, any time the ignition is turned on, the coils are likely getting full current through them, and heating up rapidly. If the bike is not moving, the coils are heating up. This is true whether the motor is running or not, so don't forget to turn the ignition off. If you need the ignition on to wiring tests, etc, disconnect the power to the coils (the kill switch should do it on stock wireing.)

loudhvx wrote: One thing to remember, any time the ignition is turned on, the coils are likely getting full current through them, and heating up rapidly. If the bike is not moving, the coils are heating up. This is true whether the motor is running or not, so don't forget to turn the ignition off. )

Definitely true in a points system, but I thought I read the Dyna (an most electronic ignitions) limit the "drive" to the electronic switch so it won't leave the coil current path continuously on to cook the coil. My electronic ignition uses "pulse" drive to the coil. Any electronic that doesn't use this kind of drive is really poorly designed.

bountyhunter wrote:

loudhvx wrote: One thing to remember, any time the ignition is turned on, the coils are likely getting full current through them, and heating up rapidly. If the bike is not moving, the coils are heating up. This is true whether the motor is running or not, so don't forget to turn the ignition off. )

Definitely true in a points system, but I thought I read the Dyna (an most electronic ignitions) limit the "drive" to the electronic switch so it won't leave the coil current path continuously on to cook the coil. My electronic ignition uses "pulse" drive to the coil. Any electronic that doesn't use this kind of drive is really poorly designed.

You are probably thinking of the Dyna 2000.

The Dyna S has the coil on full current drive until the magnet approaches the Hall sensor. It has well over 300 crank degrees of dwell. When the crank stops, odds are the magnet is not lined up with either pickup, so the ignition coils are getting full current when the ignition is turned on. Theres a small chance one of the coils may not be on, but odds are against it.

Points have about a 50/50 chance for each coil, and have a very slim chance that the crank will stop with both coils energized.

So yes, in this regard, the Dyna S is pretty crude, and prone to failure from accidentally leaving the ignition on. But at least Dyna seems very reasonable on repairing/replacing units that may have even been damaged by user error. (The Dyna 2000 is the one that has programmable advance and a sophisticated dwell, but costs much more.)

The Kawasaki electronic ignition is the one that varies the dwell angle with RPM, and has no coil energized when the crank is stopped. That is the nice thing about reluctor-driven ignitions, those features are inherent in the reluctor behavior. Hall may be cheaper, but also seems more prone to failure.