HELP?!!? my 83 kz1100 wont start

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25 Apr 2011 23:22 - 26 Apr 2011 00:14 #447049 by ledbetter0610
HELP?!!? my 83 kz1100 wont start was created by ledbetter0610
hello all,

i hope you guys can help me out. i recently bought my kz1100 d-2 for a very very good deal so i couldn't pass that up and knowing it was going to need some work done. my problem is i've replaced the battery and went through ALL the wiring and checked connections and for bad wires. nothing, all seemed to be good. when i turn the ignition on all i hear is a single click when i press the start button. i dont wont to put a butt load of money it only to find out it is something simple that i overlooked. i'm very mechanicly inclined, i rebuilt all four carbs, cleaned fuel tank, replaced all gas lines, replaced all brakes and lines as well as master cylinders. i'm just stuck on this so if their is any way you might be able to help please let me know A.S.A.P. cause i'm ready to ride.
Last edit: 26 Apr 2011 00:14 by ledbetter0610.

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26 Apr 2011 01:38 #447073 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic HELP?!!? my 83 kz1100 wont start
Your bike probably has the clutch lever interlock preventing starting. Try squeezing the clutch lever and hit the start button with the key on. It should crank over and start.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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27 Apr 2011 00:14 #447285 by ledbetter0610
Replied by ledbetter0610 on topic HELP?!!? my 83 kz1100 wont start
yes my bike does have the clutch lever interlock, when i press the clutch in and press the start button that is when it clicks. any opinion's or suggestions please get back to me. all help is greatly appreciated. thanks all

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27 Apr 2011 01:34 #447297 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic HELP?!!? my 83 kz1100 wont start
Here's factory PDF download:http://www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=77&Itemid=99

And:
Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm (not sure if the website is still viable)

C. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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