82 1000LTD 10.25 to 1 comp 1170 cc...bad starter?

It never has started well with the new pistons...turns over slow but now it wont even get close. A new starter is in order I think. I have read somewhere about useing a honda starter with more torque but I dont remember what starter that is. Can any one help me out?

Thanks
Buda

a good stock starter with a good electrical system should spin it right over,maybe your starter was just on its way out.
i think the early gpz and j series bikes also used a 4 brush starter like the hondas

Read this procedure:
redlinecycle.com/Starter%20Clutch%20Tech.html

Over Running Starter Clutch Repair On the Older, Bigger 4’S

1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:

A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs (3).
C. New spring caps (3).
D. New rollers (3).

2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.

3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.

5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.

6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.

7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!


8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.

9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.

10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.


And:

You do not need the special tools outside of the flywheel removal tool if you have a reasonably equipped tool box. Everything is straightforward and will be obvious as to what tools are required once you get beyond the flywheel.

If your bike is put together with Phillips bolts, I would definitely recommend using an inexpensive hand held impact driver for removing those without stripping the heads. Lots of penetrating oil and patience can do it with a screwdriver. But, I expect everyone has one of those hammer driven impact driver sets now days.

One caution. These tend to get the skips and have difficulty with the one way clutch on the starter holding once they have been taken apart if the old parts are reused. They may not look that worn, but as a matter of course I would replace the entire part # 13193-1006 and part # 92026-112.

Also, if you presently have a follow-on rattle or growl once the bike has started take a good look at the starter motor gear, Part # 21167-002, and the pin on which it rotates. That gear and pin tends to wear the center bearing surface after only thirty or so years and then cocks under load and puts the starter clutch assembly in a bind causing it to skip or rattle. One problem looks like the other.

Use assembly lube when putting the starter gear back together with the pin.

Get the starter rebuild kit with new brushes, put 1 size larger diameter battery cables (both), and make certain battery is up to the rated amperage, charging correctly. Also make sure Ignition timing is not set to far advanced/ advancer sticking.

You might want to contact Paul Cashio at Cashio Engineering for one of his super starters. 504-393-2260. Good points about the battery condition ,heavier guage wires, etc.

What came with the earlier bikes was about comparable to #8 AWG(Ameican Wire Gauge) I've changed my battery wiring to #6 AWG welding cable. The cable comes in two colors Red and Black, is very flexible and will fit in tight areas. The numbering series on AWG wires may seem backwards as #20 gauge is many times smaller than #8 or #6 gauge is.

Welding supply stores sell it by the foot in most cases, and can possibly crimp the terminal ends
on for you. If not, battery shops should be able to do this for you.Bring along your old battery cables for a good match in length.

I use a Honda starter , and heavier cables, in my 76 kz1200. in your case , your J motor , should already have an adequate starter.
the first place i would start looking is the battery. i noticed mine would turn over slower as the battery ages.
if it is time for a new battery i would recommend 1 with more cc's , if u can find 1 to fit your bat box. start by googleing Yuasa battery chart. the chart will show bat sizes and cca. I am running 210 cca’s
if its not the bat it may be a tired starter. try ebay.
Good luck

Thanks Guys....I have tried the battery out of my uncles bike (almost new) and its no better... but I need a new one anyway so I will start there. Then go with the rebuild for the starter...never done a starter rebuild before...always learnin..bigger cables sounds good to.

when u get the starter out. check to see if there is a kilowatt rating written on it somewhere . the kz/z1’s were .6kw the Honda is .8. I have heard that the J starters have more juice than the kz’s but I have never seen a J starter myself. PM me and let me know what u find.
I notice when I jump my 1200 off my lawn tractor bat, it turns over way faster. More does cca makes a dif.
Good luck
M

the honda starter that people use is for the double overhead cam 900/1000/1100.
i put a used honda one on and it cranks my stock z1r over noticeably faster.therefor it now starts quicker/easier.

hth,

leon