I cant get my ignition timing to the "F" mark?????

Patton wrote: From the pics, it looks like the heel is broken off or worn down on the left set of points.
The heel on the right set of points looks okay....

Here's the pic for reference (see below).

If the heel on #1/4 is shorter for whatever reason, it's a likely suspect.
Because opening of the points will be delayed.

It's the moment of opening that causes the ignition coil to fire.

Good Fortune!

Dude, your points and ignition are worn to the nub. If it does work its going to be crap at best.

Its time to replace... sorry.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=200

Cam chain might be off 1 tooth.

Okay, so I purchased a new points and condenser set. I will try it on this weekend. Carbs are all rebuilt, new accelerator pump kit on the way. I double checked the cam chain, and have correct shims now! So how would the cam chain being off a tooth affect the ignition timing? The timing rotor is bolted to the end of the crank, it should fire the plugs even with no cams or chain installed. I will try the new points. I can turn the plate enough to get the marks to line up, but they are out of the window and the bolt holes don't line up? I am ready to ride this bee-otch instead of just wrenching. Wish me luck.

If the cam chain was off a tooth it would throw the valve timing off, therefore the spark (although correctly timed to the crank) would no longer be in the optimal cam/valve timing - causes problems.

Turn the crank until the cylinder 1-4 "F" mark lines up with the case mark. This is the point that the plugs fire both the 1-4 plugs, one cylinder on the compression stroke, the other on the exhuast stroke. Time your plate/1-4 point dead on to this, then repeat on the other point with the 2-3 "F" mark.

T = Top Dead Center - no sparky here!
F = Fire mark for spark - 10 degrees before TDC - spark is here. :laugh:

Good luck.