Dyna S -CDI IGNITER BOX

HI
DO I NEED FOR THE DYNA S.
CDI IGNITER BOX??...
KZ1000 1980
I use the Accel Coil 3 ohm.
I bought two months ago the dyna s, But after 20 minutes burned Out:(

yuvalbo1 wrote:

HI
DO I NEED FOR THE DYNA S.
CDI IGNITER BOX??...
KZ1000 1980
I use the Accel Coil 3 ohm.
I bought two months ago the dyna s, But after 20 minutes burned Out:(

I.C. Igniter is NOT used with Dyna-S electronic ignition.

Any functional 3 ohm coil should work okay.

Good Fortune!

Problem in a charging component or a short in wiring can damage the Dyna-S.

Good Fortune!

Many thanks!

Is it possible to put a fuse in order not to affect-harm the dyna s?....
In the case of an electrical problem.

A fuse would protect against a short, but not an over-voltage problem.

Apparently that's what happened!
Thank you

Check the battery voltage when the bike is up to operating temperature. It should not exceed 14.5 volts D.C. If it is higher than 14.5 volts, the regulator/rectifier may be bad.

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place.

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.

MFolks. Thank you very much:)

Glad I could help, I've created several testing and replacing guides/procedures. Don't be afraid to ask....