1980 750 Bobber Project/ Fried Ic Igniter???

Ill make this quick for simplicity sake! A couple days ago I bought a 1980 750 Bobber Project for a pretty good deal, when I went to buy it the guy hooked up a battery jump box to the battery turned the switch to run, turned the key(3 pronged key switch) and the bike would start(by-passed the start button). I went out today bought a new battery for it 12A-A put the battery back in it turned over once then the IC Igniter started smoking. I was wondering what would cause the Igniter to smoke like that as he has hacked into the wiring harness and has made it difficult for me to trace everything.

Front turn signals have been removed
Rear turn signals have been removed
Horn has been removed
Start button has been by passed

I'd say get a shop manual,replace the hacked up harness, and try again.Motorcycle salvage yards might have a replacement harness.

If not, try either www.redlinecycle.com or www.oldkawman.com for a new or used harness.

Here's a wiring diagram that should help:
www.mbsween.com/kz750l3/media/KZ750-E1-US.jpg

This forum has a good selection of older bike wiring diagrams too.

I have found a few wiring diagrams for the bike but still not sure as to why the IC Igniter fried? Would any harm be done to the started itself or would the Igniter take all the backlash?

The IC igniter actually gives the ignition coils their grounds, firing the sparkplugs.

This information is for the bigger 4's(Kz1000's,Kz1100's)but I'd imagine the ohm check out would be the same.

The major differences is how the sparkplugs and ignition coils are configured.

The 550's,650's and 750's are wired backwards from the Kz1000's and Kz1100/GPz1100's.

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(under a right side CD sized cover) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

That is strange.
Are you sure it was the IC igniter, and not the regulator/rectifier? Using a high voltage jumpbox could fry a regulator pretty easily if he didn't jump it right. (You have to make sure the high voltage only gets to the starter.)

Dyna S - junk the ignighter crap.

Well, I think the original dwell-compensation system is a little smarter than the Dyna S and can save some charging system headaches. But only if it works. The Dyna S sucks way more power and will require new coils.

The fried igniter was from the new battery not the jump box thats why I am confused, maybe it wasn't grounded? Today I finised on all the frame work(griding, and welding new brackets on the hard tail). Tomorrow I believe im going to go over the wiring diagram and double check everything... The only problem is the original key switch has been removed with a 3 pronged key start, not sure how they should be wired up I believe power, accesory(key on), start would be the 3 prongs?