What's this sound like to you?

MFolks wrote:

I'd pull the starter and inspect for worn commutator and brushes.

Well that's kind of what I figured. I don't know what these puppies are supposed to sound like or if that was a fairly typical cold start on a 32 year old bike.

I was kind of hoping it was just the cold.

I might keep telling myself that until spring proves me wrong.

I'm not even sure what weight oil that you are supposed to use on the twins, but if the PO used a very heavy oil, it will cause slow starts in cold weather. Twins are, by nature, harder to turn over than the same sized 4. When the starter has to drive the piston through the compression stroke, it's compressing twice the displacement. My father in law is a harley guy. He's got this old 64 panhead that's a kick only bike. Even worse, he uses 70wt oil. That thing is a BEAR to start when it's cold.

You can also make sure that all your electrical connections are corrosion free, and tight. Verify that your grounds to the frame are correctly attached and clean. Lots of little problems can lead to a bike that is slow to start.

On the side of the engine case I think it says to use 10w40. Is that what you guys would recommend?

If it says it right there on the motor, then yes. That's what all the fours use, and what I would have guessed.

Well an oil change is certainly a good idea and something I'll be doing before getting on the road this spring. I guess it is possible that the previous owner put too heavy a oil in there.

Maybe a warm weekend will come along and I can find out how this bikes starts when its above freezing.

To me, you have two weak points: the starter, which everybody mentioned -- I think you need to have it rebuilt, shouldn't be expensive and it's a good investment for the future--and the starter switch connection. I would start by cleaning the starter switch connection, because it's cheap and easy to do, and then if it does not solve the issue I'd take the starter to any good garage that is specialized in electrical problems and ask them to rebuild that starter. With that, you'll be good to go!!!!

C

PS Keep in mind I know next to nothing about mechanics, but I used to have a weak starter too... They just wear out.

Thanks. Cleaning the switch connections is probably a good idea along with checking grounds.

Is a starter rebuild really difficult? I'm handy but not a mechanic. Should I tackle that myself or leave it to a professional?

Topper wrote:

Thanks. Cleaning the switch connections is probably a good idea along with checking grounds.

Is a starter rebuild really difficult? I'm handy but not a mechanic. Should I tackle that myself or leave it to a professional?

Starter rebuild is very easy

10w40 is ok for when the bike is above 40, but when it dips below... use a good 5w40 full synthetic like Rotella T (wet clutch compatible), and it WILL start much easier - guarantee it. This oil can also be ran all summer too

Set asid a couple hours to pull apart the control pods, and all electrical connections on the bike (one at a time), and use a small pin/jewelers screwdriver/correct tool to dissasemble the connectors and wire brush clean all the connectors.
Then use a good electrical spray (like Mfolks recommends), that restores old connections and keeps them clean, and actually improves connectivity.

Fresh gas.
FULL CHARGE = 12.6 - 12.8 Volts after resting overnight.
Fresh oil.
Clean contacts everywhere.
Pull choke full - dont use throttle!
Increase idle slightly if necessary - she is really old and in need of some tlc/tuning for sure.
Check points quickly.
START! - and she will, just fine



Best of luck.

I posted this in another thread, but it's worth repeating:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner, and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting),
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........



Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.

It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.


Stumped as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.

TeK9iNe wrote:

Topper wrote:

Thanks. Cleaning the switch connections is probably a good idea along with checking grounds.

Is a starter rebuild really difficult? I'm handy but not a mechanic. Should I tackle that myself or leave it to a professional?

Starter rebuild is very easy

10w40 is ok for when the bike is above 40, but when it dips below... use a good 5w40 full synthetic like Rotella T (wet clutch compatible), and it WILL start much easier - guarantee it. This oil can also be ran all summer too

Set asid a couple hours to pull apart the control pods, and all electrical connections on the bike (one at a time), and use a small pin/jewelers screwdriver/correct tool to dissasemble the connectors and wire brush clean all the connectors.
Then use a good electrical spray (like Mfolks recommends), that restores old connections and keeps them clean, and actually improves connectivity.

Fresh gas.
FULL CHARGE = 12.6 - 12.8 Volts after resting overnight.
Fresh oil.
Clean contacts everywhere.
Pull choke full - dont use throttle!
Increase idle slightly if necessary - she is really old and in need of some tlc/tuning for sure.
Check points quickly.
START! - and she will, just fine



Best of luck.

I hereby name this statement "IN A PERFECT WORLD" :woohoo:

Some people just like to talk about their jewelers screwdriver and pin outs :woohoo: That's what I'm tasting here, seems like things just slow way down when we slip into the jewelers dimension and on down to pin city and the touch is on. :woohoo: We been had folks! The pin out story again. :woohoo:

Tech I'm tired can you tell me a story?
Now he's gonna feel like a Monkey jumped on his back.
But it's not it's a nads. ATTACK ATTTACK! :woohoo:

nads.com wrote:

Tech I'm tired can you tell me a story?
Now he's gonna feel like a Monkey jumped on his back.
But it's not it's a nads. ATTACK ATTTACK! :woohoo:

:laugh: I'm sure he'll make out just fine. I simply meant t grab/use anything that fits to remove the connectors, as I don't really have the correct tool to do so, so I make due.

Maybe I should have just said - get the manual, and been done with. :blink:

Bike sounds like it will start... sure theres lots of other stuff... just didn't want to overwhelm.

I try not to presume...