Coil Relay Mod w/Big pictures

I agree, the stock system is a simpler layout, fewer parts to fail. Too many failed relays out there for me to think it's a magic bullet.

This modification actually creates the potential for decreased relibility.

It does work for those desperately trying to quick fix a low coil power issue right at the beginning of a season, just to ride. But everyone should have the intentions of going through the entire system and making repairs as necessary before the next season... theres a reason (as mentioned already) why the manufacturer didnt go this route.

Not my cup of tea, as things could burn up, or fail before the end of a season, but this seems to be the norm! :S

In particular, I feel the charging system needs diligent monitoring/maintenence on a fairly regular basis. The harness once inspected/tested can be rechecked maybe twice a year.

The main drawback to the mod is that it masks the underlying problems of bad connections and wiring. If you don't fix the real probloems, then you will possibly have headaches later. The voltage drops due to bad connections can cause the charging system to overcharge the battery in order to compensate. This will shorten battery life and in extreme cases can damage some other components.

TO answer the question regarding why the stock electronic ignition can use a similar mod without a relay... the stock electronic ignition will draw no current through the coils unless the motor is spinning and the electronic module is powered up. Therefore you can wire the positive side of the coils directly to the battery. This however, bypasses three safety devices (fuse, ignition switch, and kill switch) as does the relay mod. If the igniter were to short out, then the coils would probably melt.

Very well done boys. Suggestions on systematically going through the electrical system (for dummies) would be greatly appreciated.

I have used this mod on many of my bikes. I have had no fires, no melted coils, and none of my bikes has ever been struck by lightining. My bikes do start better then they ever did without the ignition relays, they get better mileage, and they also make more power ( my YZF600 made 3 more hp on the dyno with the relay ).
I also cleaned all of the connections and switches with contact cleaner untill the voltage losses were adderssed.
This seems to be a very touchy subject on this forum, so do what works for you!

I'd say get some of the De-Oxit(maybe two cans)and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight,then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting,spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However,when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin,and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights,slow engine cranking,slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn,horn,run/stop,and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting),
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fus clip.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

Its about all covered.
My 2cents: Start with a new battery, or 1 that has been tested and charged, use a DVOM along the connectors/ switches to see the voltage drop. Pay close attention to the fuse box, many members have replaced the fuse box with a ATC style fuse panel.
If you feel you would like to see some of the current re-routed, maybe consider another circuit? The Head light is a big draw, but less than the Ignition.
Try putting up the bike info, you can add it to your signature, so everyone will know the model and year.
If a 81 up with a 5 wire regulator, the brown wire at the regulator senses load/ voltage, brown being the Ignition power circuit, if it sees a low voltage it will send excess to the battery causing overcharging.

Funny about relays..... I bought a 2002 Z24 Chevy cavalier brand new and it has been an OK car (for an American car), but the very first component to fail on it was the relay the runs the cooling fan that blows air through the radiator. It was about 6 months old (still under warranty) but that was little consolation when it failed: I was driving to sacramento and it was 110F outside. I stopped in Stockton to get a soda and the car temp gauge went off the dial within about two minutes of pulling off the freeway. I was lucky that I could drive it as long as it was on the freeway and had a lot of airflow. Made it home without cooking the engine.

I agree that this "modification" is a band-aid to dirty or partially broken connections and just adds another thing that could fail on the road. Claims of added hp are bs. Go through and clean and inspect all the connections. Replace connectors and repair wires when you find broken strands or melted insulation and corroded wires. As has been posted above a wire brush, sandpaper, scotch brite pads and contact cleaner work great. The connectors and housings can be purchased from Z1 if they need replacing. Check voltage drops across wires and switches. You should only drop .1 to .2 volt from battery voltage across these components.

My old man gave me this bike as present after returning from the Gulf. He had bought it from another gentlemen.

I pulled the wiring harness apart and slowly started the unraveling of the electrical tape (took hours). I found at least 3 broken connections and multiple that were junked up. What is the best way to apply new connections. Solder or crimp with bullets? heat shrink?

I've found using the special heat shrink splices to be the best way to avoid further electrical problems.

The way they are used is to strip back 3/16" of the insulation, then crimp using special tools available at most electronic supply stores, using a heat gun to shrink the insulation for a waterproof splice.

www.mcmelectronics.com
Tena Auto Ranging Multimeter
72-7750

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The flying aircraft model shops sell inexpensive heat guns for shrinking the film use for control surfaces.

I believe a brand called "Top Flight" is still sold.