1977 KZ650b electrical problem

I have a digital multimeter for checking continuity, found it in the garage... The problem is I don't know how it works. Anyone up forgiving me a basic crash course in electronics as I hunt for replacement switches?

I know I'm asking a lot of you guys. Thanks for the help you've already given

The first thing to do, is to check and see if the meter has an internal battery, as this is used when doing continuity checks or ohm checks.

Most meters need a 9 volt battery, others maybe two AA batteries. The meter should have two test leads, a RED and a BLACK. These are what you will use for voltage and resistance checks.

Never check voltage with the meter set on ohms as it can destroy the meter.

When checking the motorcycle's voltage at the battery, set the meter this way:

1.Set the selector switch to VDC(Volts,Direct Current).

2.Range of 20 (the battery puts out 14.5 volts D.C. fully charged). If unshure of voltages, always start at the highest and turn the selector switch on the meter down to a lower range.

3.Put the RED probe on the Positive(+)battery teminal and the BLACK probe on the Negative(-) battery terminal.

4.If the battery is good you might see 12-14 volts D.C.

5.Batteries may put out the correct voltage, but it's the current or Amps that turns the starter motor over.

6.If the battery is suspect,fully charge it and take to a motorcycle or car shop for load testing.

Ohm or continuity checking is a means of verifying that wires or switches are operating properly by runing a small current from the meter through the circuit being tested.

Most meters have a built in buzzer or beeper when the selector switch is set to ohm(looks like the letter Omega, or a horse shoe).

Confused?......

I don't think I'm confused. The battery is brand new, charged, and seems to be doing fine. Under the DCV setting there are quite a few numbers.. (200m, 2000m, 20, 200, 1000)

I don't see anything that says Ohm on the meter?

It will look like a horseshoe. If it has it.

Got some progress. I blew a fuse! Which was fixed, and was then blown again. I believe my unsoldering of the factory switches likely fried the starter button and/or on off switch. So I'll just have to buy new ones.

Thanks for the help folks. Learned a lot! Will probably be back when I screw something else up on my cafe project...

It's possible you don't need knew switches. This happened to me on a KZ900 that I pulled the throttle cables off of to clean them. It turns out I had the wires going to the emergency stop switch mixed up which made them short to the handlebars and blow the fuse. Just go over all wiring again to make sure it's right and then try turning the key on without the right hand switchgear attached to the bars. Hopefully it will work.

Avatar pic reminds of being pulled for speeding, going 53 in a 35 mph zone.
Cop pointed to the signs.

Thinking might joke way out of ticket, told him I was dyslexic.

No sense of humor. Just kept writing. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Good Fortune!

Righto! While shopping around on Ebay for the switches I need, I started noticing the incredibly low handlebar prices that are out there..

I found an offer of clubmans, bar end mirrors and grips! My bike doesn't have mirrors or grips currently, so this seems like quite the buy. The problem is, I go to school on the weekdays and stay in the city with some friends. Long story short I've no way of measuring the handlebars on my '77 kz650b. I think these will fit, but am not sure..

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Black-Cafe-Racer...es#ht_3309wt_939/url ]

7/8 seems to fit every 70's era motorcycle I've come across.

I little to late to help now, but just for info, nothing needs to be unsoldered, the wires pull out through the bars. It may not look possible, but what goes up must come down as the old saying goes, Kawasaki originally pulled the wiring through the bars. This can be done with connectors and all still in place. I've done it myself on a KZ650 so anyone don't believe it, you're wrong. If you unsoldered all those wires, unless you're an expert at soldering, you'll need all new switchgear as it's ruined.

Yeah, after unsoldering my father pointed out all you need to is remove the gas tank to get to the wire harness. Easily unplugged from there. I screwed up pretty good. Oh well, live and learn

Odd question but, do you know if Honda/Suzuki switches will fit on this particular Kawasaki? Are the electricals interchangeable between these manufactures?

I apologize for all the questions folks, this is my first "project" bike. I've owned a 750 honda shadow and a 900 kawasaki vulcan, and I can already tell -this- is going to be the most fun bike. None of the previous were any work.

Hi Sad gruffman, Does all the wires go through the handle bars on a '77? If so the later models have external wiring and connect in the head light housing. Saves a lot of time and headaches. Bob

The wiring goes through the handlebars (or did, until I pulled them all out) and feeds behind the headlight down under the gas tank. At the gas tank it is supposed to have a Male/Female end I believe. Seems this one was cut (or maybe that is how all the '77 model b's are) and each individual wire is held to the other wires by very small clear plastic cylinders. (resembling a straw, only thicker)