Winter Project: Complete Wiring Overhaul

I'm going to call it a night, Loudhvx or Otakar come in earlier than I, so they can help...

MFolks wrote: I'm going to call it a night, Loudhvx or Otakar come in earlier than I, so they can help...

I already have everything else figured out, just needed to know about the three questions I had in the above post. Thanks for your help

Wiring diagrams from FILEBASE, if needed:

www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/311-z750e3

www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/312-z750r1
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/285-z750n1
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/36...z750m1wiringdiag0002
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/310-z750h3

Good Fortune!

clutch wrote: Resurrecting this thread to motivate myself to rewire the bike this fall/winter since I wussed out last year due to the cold weather. I'm writing/drawing up a schematic for what I need, and have 3 questions after checking my wiring diagram.

There may be one in the Mattylight thread already. I can draw up a schematic for a stripped down bike pretty easily if you'd like. Mine are schematics that show functionality, rather than actual wire layout to better show how the circuits work. The Mattylight thread is in my signature if you are intereseted.

clutch wrote: 1. Where does the brown wire from the reg/rect need to connect? In my manual, it looks like it connects to one of the 10 amp circuits with the fuse and ignition switch between the connection and the battery. Am I looking at this one right??? Is this the wire that reads battery voltage to switch the diodes open/shut to not overcharge the battery?

The brown wire on most KZ's is the main, switched, battery wire. That is, anytime the ignition switch is on, that wire should have battery voltage on it. It runs most things on the bike (slightly different on different years and models). It's usually powered through the main 20A fuse, and depending on the bike, it may provide power to the 10 amp fuses which feed the lights (it does on your bike). So it is connected to both 10A lighting fuses, but is feeding them, not getting power from them. It actually gets power from the 20A main fuse through the ignition switch. The brown wire is critical on the regulator. The regulator uses the brown wire to determine what the battery voltage is, in order to regulate it. If the voltage is low on the brown line, it will compensate by raising the battery voltage. This is not good if the battery voltage goes up near 15v.

clutch wrote: 2. Where does the Red/White wire from the reg/rect connect? In my wiring diagram, it appears to connect to the hot side of the starter solenoid (basically straight to the positive battery terminal). Is that correct? I'm assuming that this is the actually charging circuit...

Correct. The red/white is the output of the rectifier. (Rectifier portion of the combo reg/rec.)

clutch wrote: 3. I plan to remove the "reserve lighting unit" from the equation to minimize as much as possible. I know this unit is there for safety, as it switches the headlight to the high/low circuit if the current filament fails, but is it REALLY necessary? Thoughts?

I have removed all of mine from every bike since it is a spaghetti nest of wires. It's very easy to bypass it.

Run power to the BLU/YEL wire on the hi-lo switch. Ignore the BLU/RED wire (tape it up). BLK/RED is to the high beam filament (and indicator). RED/YEL is to the low beam filament.

You get power from the 10A fuse with the blue wire. Normally that blue wire feeds the lighting unit, but to bypass it, you run it to the BLU/YEL wire on the hi-lo switch. If you are keeping the harness, or you want to test out the theory, remove the lighting unit, and jumper the BLU wire to the BLU/YEL wire at the lighting-unit's harness plug.

One more question... what gauge wire should be used for the different circuits?

18 gauge for most circuits is almost the same size as what Kawasaki used. Maybe 16 gauge for the starter and horn circuits just to be safe. Are you going to run the wiring inside or outside the handlebars?

If inside, I have some pulling tips...

MFolks wrote:
If inside, I have some pulling tips...

Im reading this & i'd be interested in those tips please, i'll be running my wires down the bars.

750steve wrote:

MFolks wrote:
If inside, I have some pulling tips...

Im reading this & i'd be interested in those tips please, i'll be running my wires down the bars.

While I haven't decided if I'm keeping the current bars I have, I was considering this and would like to hear any advise about running wires through the bars too.

Before running any wiring inside th bars, take time to see if any sharp "Burrs" are there, otherwise they will quickly strip any insulation away from the wire's conductors, resulting in an electrical short.

A Dremel tool with a small stone grinding bit will smooth most burrs away.If a Dremel is not available, a small round rat tail file does just as good.

When preparing to pull the wire bundle through the bars, carefully taper the bundles end with masking tape as this makes for a better pulling situation.

I use aircraft 0.032" diameter safety wire secured to the wire bundle as a pulling madium, Nylon string or small diameter cord will work for this too.

Silicone spray or electricians pulling lubricant should be applied to the end of the wires to ease the operation. It's best to have a helper while doing this to avoid problems of possible pinched or damaged wires. Have your helper apply a steady pulling effort while you carefully feed the wire bundle into the handlebars.

After the job of pulling is done, get a multimeter, set it on the lowest ohm setting, open up the switch housings to access the wire ends and then see if a wire of two has shorted out.

Put one probe on the handlebar and the other on any soldered wire ends on the switches and see if the meter indicates continuity by either making a buzz(some meters have built in buzzers) or a display on the meter face.

An analog meter(the type with the needle indicator) will act similar (except no buzzer) by showing usually a full deflection(needle movement)if there is a short by again, checking with the lowest setting on the ohm scale of the meter.

Finding a short now is a whole lot better than when it's wired up & blowing fuses or possible stranding you on the road.....

loudhvx wrote:

clutch wrote: 3. I plan to remove the "reserve lighting unit" from the equation to minimize as much as possible. I know this unit is there for safety, as it switches the headlight to the high/low circuit if the current filament fails, but is it REALLY necessary? Thoughts?

I have removed all of mine from every bike since it is a spaghetti nest of wires. It's very easy to bypass it.

Run power to the BLU/YEL wire on the hi-lo switch. Ignore the BLU/RED wire (tape it up). BLK/RED is to the high beam filament (and indicator). RED/YEL is to the low beam filament.

You get power from the 10A fuse with the blue wire. Normally that blue wire feeds the lighting unit, but to bypass it, you run it to the BLU/YEL wire on the hi-lo switch. If you are keeping the harness, or you want to test out the theory, remove the lighting unit, and jumper the BLU wire to the BLU/YEL wire at the lighting-unit's harness plug.

I must have missed something, running blue to blue/yellow gives me low beam, but no high beam.
thanks, working thru this fixit this evening.

Still want to bypass the light reserve.
Any got diagrams or pics?
Thanks