'82 kz550 ltd not starting, but started yesterday

Sooo, since my bike is currently not being riden (waiting to have the front wheel aligned) I try to start the bike every day or so and let it run for a few minutes, crank the throttle, honk the horn (for fun) and just let it idle. Today I went down to start it, and nothing happened. When I turn the key in the ignition the lights come on, the horn works, but when I hit the starter button nothing happens. Doesn't try to turn over, nothing. Does that sound like I need a new starter button? Or just check the wiring? Any ideas?

Thanks so much!

A bike really needs to be driven at a speed faster than idle to charge the battery. Get a motorcycle rated battery charger(I use a brand called "Battery Tender") to keep the batery fully charged. Never use a charger rated for a car as they will boil the battery fluid, ruining the battery.

Also if your battery is the type requiring water, use only distilled water to fill to the indicated lines on the battery case. Ordinary tap water contains minerals that over time will short out the plates inside the battery.

All battery connections and ones going from the starter solenoid(relay) to the starter motor need to be clean and tight. Don't forget the Negative(-) one going to an engine mounting bolt as this is the ground connection.

And:

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm (not sure if the website is still viable)

C. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

thanks so much! I'm going to go down right now and start scrubing! :laugh:

Thanks also for the quick reply!!!

johnLTD wrote:

Sooo, since my bike is currently not being riden (waiting to have the front wheel aligned) I try to start the bike every day or so and let it run for a few minutes

That can be very hard on a motor. You run it just long enough to create condensation inside the engine which is highly acidic because it combines with sulphurous compounds. Motor oils have acid neutralizers to help prevent damage from acidic condensation but you don't want to fill the engine with it regularly. If you start it, run it until the engine is at full temp. Riding it is what you should do, but at least get it fully hot.

Uh oh! Thanks for the heads up! Luckily it's only been a week or so. I can't wait to be able to ride, but first i need ze monies. I'm glad you posted that!

What, exactly, is involved in a front wheel alignment?

errr, the wheel is out of alignment with the handlebars. like, significantly. but the forks aren't bent. it wasn't dropped exactly, but was put on to the ground rather abruptly off of a three foot ledge, by way of landing on my leg first. So i think it's just a matter of unscrewing the fork clamps and the wheel, putting the wheel straight, and then retightening everything. I will post pictures tonight or tomorrow.

Gotcha. One way you can do that is to loosen the top clamp on one side, the lower clamp on the other side, then the axle clamps. Re-torque in reverse order. Might work for your leg, too. :blink:

Nobody mentioned the obvious, the kill switch. I've accidentally bumped it myself, and I'm sure many others have also. Did you leave the key on? Bob