TOPIC:

Title says it all. The bike had a meltdown, then I had a melt down.

Okay here's the story: two weeks ago on my way home from work, while sitting at a stop sign, the bike just cuts out. The engine kill switch was in the on position as was the key, but I had no power at all and got no response from the starter button (obviously). I turned everything off and then on again, and the bike started right up.

Then, the bike sat for about ten days while I was out of town. So, I take it out two days ago, and it is really hard to start and takes forever to warm up. The bike has been hard to start and warm up and beening basically running rough, and I was figuring it was time for some carb work. But this was a bit much.

So, I finally get her going and drive for a mile or two, then as I approach a stop light and pull in the clutch, the bike dies again. No bogging, just dead. This happens a few more times, but everytime the bike starts right back up. At this point, I'm turned around and heading for home, when it does it again, and this time the bike never comes back.

I push it into a parking lot, and check over the battery connections, the frame connections and all seems well. Then, I open the fuse box. The 20 amp fuse (I have three: 2 10's and a 20) looks burnt and the wire is melted and a bit chared. From the wiring diagram, the 20 amp fuse is clearly connected to the ignition system. It was incredibly hot to the touch. I pull the fuse and put in a new one. Nothing. I put the old one back in, and I get power, although I didn't try to start it. I put the new one in again, and nothing. Then I try the old one, and nothing again.

Okay, so I figure I need to replace that wire and the fuse, but what could be causing this? I'd love to think it was just this wire, but my gut feeling is there is some bigger electrical issue here. Any thoughts on this one?

Sorry for the really long story.

If the end of the fuse was hot, and the wire near the fuse was hot, then it had a bad connection at the end of the fuse, and a new (or good used) replacement fuse box would probably fix it. With a liitle work you can probably save your fuse box, cleaning and resoldering may work if the heat was not enough to anneal the fuse clips.

Thanks for the reply, Steell.

If I replace the fuse box, is there somewhere I should be checking to make sure it isn't a short that fried the box? Do the fuse boxes sometimes just go? I also wonder if it got so super heated why the fuse didn't blow. It was chared around the metal caps, but the fuse itself was intact.

Thanks again.

Generally it's corrosion that does the trick, corrosion causes increased resistance which generates the heat.
Fuses blow because of excessive current passing through them, so the excessive heat just loosens the end caps and takes the temper out of the fuse clips so there is no "spring" left in them to grip the fuse.

I see.

Thanks!

That's a very common problem. The fuse didn't blow because you don't have a short somewhere. It was just hot from dirt as Steell said. In my opinion you should replace the fuse holder with the spade type fuses. They seem to make better contact which would prevent future meltdowns (be it the bike or you ).

loudhvx wrote:

In my opinion you should replace the fuse holder with the spade type fuses. They seem to make better contact which would prevent future meltdowns (be it the bike or you ).

That's good advice for the bike, but I don't think there is anything out there that can keep me from melting down once in awhile!

Definately replace the old fuse box with waterproof/rubber spade fuse holders. I did this 18 months ago and have not blown a fuse since. Cut, Solder & shrinkwrap the wires.