LTD 1000 quits running

Hye guys,
Got my 80 LTD 1000 (12K and stock)) out of storage and put in a new battery to get her going. It runs very good except (big except) it will shut off while going down the road. I'll pull over, shut off key tunr back on hit the button and fires right off. It always starts right up cold and I can't get this to happen while I'm idling.

It's alomst like the kill switch or key is turned off-- no spark. I cleaned the bat terminals and that seemed to work for a while but it's happening again.
Could this be the ignitor?
Thanks for any help.

mcat

could also be the coils cooling down and making the connection while cool, wires seperate while warm/hot, the IC is a good place to start......I am sure other's will chime in....

Your on to the right idea, with the kill switch or key suddenly going off.

When its going down the road, its being subjected to road vibration and harsheties... therefore, its probly just a loose connection.

Time to go through the wiring and clean up some connectors.

A quick test can be performed though. Run the engine with the tank removed, seat open, and headlight out. Have someone assist with a secondary line/tank for fuel. Then you can wiggle/bend all the wiring/connectors until you find the one that causes the bike to cut out.

Because it sounds like all cylinders are cutting out, I would guess either kill switch, key, clutch lever switch.

Good Luck.

I suspect the pick up (pulsing) coils may be the cause of the problem along with the IC Igniter.

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(under a right side CD sized cover) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

And wiring for the ignition coils and ohm specs:

Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs.

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s 650‘s and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.

Mine did that for a while... I was thinking:

"Wow! It's like somebody turned off the ignition switch!"

It was a bad ignition switch.:laugh:

Happened to me. It was the negative battery terminal which was loose. Looked ok but it was loose. Once tightened up it was ok. I've heard of same with bad battery negative to ground cable.

bountyhunter wrote:

Mine did that for a while... I was thinking:

"Wow! It's like somebody turned off the ignition switch!"

It was a bad ignition switch.:laugh:

Same here.



Mcat: Do the lights turn off as well? That would be a switch or wire continuity problem. Since it comes back on when you switch off and on, the break is somewhere near the ignition switch, or the switch itself. Try wiggling that area while idling.

I had a Z1 that did the same thing. Turned out to be a single ground wire bullet connector off the left handlebar control harness under the fuel tank. Check all your ground wire connections or all your coupler connections for that matter. They can corrode over time. A bit of dielectric grease on your couplers is a good idea too.

Thanks for all the advice btw.

I'm going to start with cleaning then applying dialectic grease on the connectors and neg bat grnd. when it stops running it will completely turn off. i turn the key off then on and it starts right up. seems like either the switch or a connector. i cannot repeat this while idling.

I rode it for a couple of weeks between symptoms so it seems like a connection to me.
how does the switch come out? i took off the dash cover but it looks like it comes out behind somehow.

thanks,

mcat

On the LTD the switch assy comes out the bottom, there are two Allen cap screws, 6mm, they are easiest with the head lamp bucket removed, or at least lowered. Since the plug-in is located in there all you have to do is remove the 2 large bolts at the ears. While your there clean the connectors, and tighten up any of them that feel loose.

If you haven't done it yet, don't put on the dielectric grease. I've seen it cause way more problems than it ever solves. With heat and vibration, it wicks into the connection and acts as an insulator between connecting metals. That means the connection area gets smaller, goes up in resistance, gets hot, wicks more grease, and goes up even higher in resistance.

Just clean them and wrap with non-adhesive, electric tape (or a little adhesive tape) if you want to keep out dirt.