I need a tool!

Does anyone know where I can find a "Alternator removal tool" part #57001-254 or #57001-1099? I need to replace the starter clutch on my '82 CSR 1000.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere is a good place

There was a thread on this not to long ago, some said the bolt from the triple trees had the same thread, some said the rear axle. On mine it was the rear axle, and I think yours would be the same. Take out the rear axle and it should thread into the end of the rotor and take it off. Be careful as you can loose the magnetism, or have the magnets come loose as they are glued to the rotor. It will take a lot of turning force to get it off, then when putting it back on the FSM recommends cleaning the taper on the crank and the mating taper in the rotor with a quick flashing solvent, then re-torquing to 116ft lbs. Some blue loctite on the bolts a good Idea.

What ever you do,"do not tap the side of the rotor"!!! You will crack the magnets and the unit will be useless after that. Even one crack anywhere will change the magnetic field threw the Alternator. You can tap the end of the puller if you wish or heat up the center very carefully with a torch as you are tightening the bolt. make sure that you use something like "neverseeze" on the threads so you do not gall the threads. I just tighten the bolt as far as I feel is safe and than start heating the center. It will POP off quite quickly.

Thank you all. I never considered the bike having the tool "built in". Thats the cheap tool I was looking for! Thanks Again!

You should read the procedure in the Manual, if you don't have 1 there is a pdf of 1 on KZR. It will be of great help, and may keep from having a woopsie.

Thx. I do have a manual.

otakar wrote:

What ever you do,"do not tap the side of the rotor"!!! You will crack the magnets and the unit will be useless after that. Even one crack anywhere will change the magnetic field threw the Alternator. You can tap the end of the puller if you wish or heat up the center very carefully with a torch as you are tightening the bolt. make sure that you use something like "neverseeze" on the threads so you do not gall the threads. I just tighten the bolt as far as I feel is safe and than start heating the center. It will POP off quite quickly.

Good info here...

Tighten, whack, tighten, whack... it seems to be stuck and not moving, but trust me, its about being able to tighten the bolt further, not -much harder whacking.

Heat works good if your comfortable with it. makes the job half the effort.

Good luck.

Just to add to Otakar's warning, heat and impact are two things that reduce magnetism in magnets, so keep both to a minimum, and only in the center, never on the sides.

dont forget the ball bearing !

PLUMMEN wrote:

dont forget the ball bearing !

What he said-just make sure you use a big one or you will mess up the threads in the crank. Dont ask how I know this.:blush:

Kawasaki sold a tool for both the old and new style rotors on KZ900/1000/1100.

The tool is threaded on each end with a generous hex section in the middle. You get the tool and cut it in half. Then get some 5/8" round stock, cut two pieces 5" long. Weld those to hex section on each piece in the form of a T.

Thread it the puller and wack the T Handle with a hammer. Rotor comes right off without risking and magnet damage.

It takes longer to thread the puller into the rotor than it does to get the rotor off the crank....Been doing them that way since 1985...