dead electrical

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04 Sep 2010 21:36 #396205 by 1976z1900
dead electrical was created by 1976z1900
was riding my 76 z900 today and just lost power?what do i need to check? any advice would be great.....
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04 Sep 2010 21:53 #396207 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic dead electrical
I'd check the fuses first, the older glass tubed fuses can fail but look good. Most auto parts stores can get you the AGX fuses. You'll probably need 10 and 20 amp fuses.

Some of the earlier Z1's and Kz900's had minimum fuses, the later 80''s bikes had the circuits broken down better to about 5 fuses.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

Ignition switches can also fail, especially if your switch is original to the bike.
Another place to look is the right handlebar switch pod, the run/stop switch is there along with the start switch. The headlight housing has a majority of the electrical connectors from the main harness, these mat have corrosion or be damaged.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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04 Sep 2010 22:38 #396217 by 1976z1900
Replied by 1976z1900 on topic dead electrical
you were correct sir!! blown main fuse,will get one in the morning and hope thats it.In following , with my 13 years of working on this bike what should i check when i still have no power?.. lol

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05 Sep 2010 11:02 #396284 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic dead electrical
On most motorcycles, the battery must be fully charged for good ignition. If the battery cells are weak, then spark energy will be affected too.

Having clean and tight battery connections(no corrosion and the cables should not move when pulled on)is the first thing I look for when someone mentions no power.

The Negative(-) battery terminal going to the engine mounting bolt is overlooked a lot. It's purpose is to have the voltage return back to the battery after doing work.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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