please read this

bike still wont start.it was running fine then one day the turn sig. stopped working,no big deal i got hand sigs.(and finger if they piss me off) then about a week later one morning leaving for work it wouldent start i cranked and cranked finaly started puzzled i rode it to work any way thinking mabe bad gas so put premium gas got to work pulled my 8 hrs. got on my bike started right up went home everything good next day i got hit with rain on my way home still started good everything good. yesterday hard to get started but once started ran and started great all day. i did replace the oem coils and the oem pickup coils, i still suspect the ic ignighter and the battery my battery is 2 1/2 years old but kept on a batt. tender it shows a charge of 12.4 volts mabe this is not enough for the first start with cold cylenders, and once the cylenders are warm it dont take as hot of a spark. or mabe its the ic ignighter is whats wrong. am i on the right track? do you guys have any other ideas? batt. feeds the ic unit the ic unit feeds the coils.well i found the prob. valves 60psi compression, i just payed the shop to adjust the valves last year assumed they new what they were doin if your in reno never trust michaels cycles to do anything

Figure on spending at least a day cleaning the many and various electrical connectors and switches.I use a very good brand of electrical contact cleaner/preservative called "De-oxit" available at Radio Shack stores and other electronic supply places.

www.deoxit.com is their website, I have used it on my bike for many years, inside my house on RCA patch cords,and cordless phone charging cradles.

The right handlebar switch pod has the run/stop switch along with the start switch. These may have corrosion making for intermittent operation.

The headlight housing usually has the majority of the electrical connectors coming from the main harness.If any have green corrosion, this lowers the voltage/current for that circuit(s).

MFolks wrote:

Figure on spending at least a day cleaning the many and various electrical connectors and switches.I use a very good brand of electrical contact cleaner/preservative called "De-oxit" available at Radio Shack stores and other electronic supply places.

www.deoxit.com is their website, I have used it on my bike for many years, inside my house on RCA patch cords,and cordless phone charging cradles.

The right handlebar switch pod has the run/stop switch along with the start switch. These may have corrosion making for intermittent operation.

The headlight housing usually has the majority of the electrical connectors coming from the main harness.If any have green corrosion, this lowers the voltage/current for that circuit(s).

Yessir!

Get on it :laugh:

ditto on the bad connections

I agree with the bad connections, but the spec for a good battery is 12.65 DCV to 12.8 DCV. This may not seem like a big deal but using a TCI you really need to have the right battery voltage.

Oh and the reason I agree with the bad connection thing is because if there are bad connections then its sucking down voltage, i.e. lowering an already low voltage.

tmstoltz wrote:

...suspect the ic ignighter and the battery my battery is 2 1/2 years old but kept on a batt. tender it shows a charge of 12.4 volts mabe this is not enough for the first start with cold cylenders...batt. feeds the ic unit the ic unit feeds the coils.

Would have battery load-tested. It's a free service at many auto parts stores such as AutoZone and others that sell batteries.

Battery+ voltage runs from battery > fuse > ignition switch > on-off-run switch > ignition coils.

Ignition coils are grounded and ungrounded via wires running through i.c. igniter to pick-ups at crankshaft.

Good Fortune!

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