1999 kz1000p hard to start when cold
- tmstoltz
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1999 kz1000p hard to start when cold
01 Sep 2010 22:06
Still trying to figure this one out,My 1999 kz1000p, I try to start it and as it turns over it starts popping with the throttle open part way then after a while turning over the popping gets more frequint then it will start, i rev it a few times then shut it off then when i hit the start button it starts right away, I checked the srark on all cylinders and it seems that the spark is weak on cylinders 1 and 3. The oem coils are about 2 years old the pickup coils i just replaced.I called the kawasaki service dept. today they said to check the ground wires i did that and replaced the spark plugs still the same problem, and the turn signals dont work, can you help me out with this problem?
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- Kraz1
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Re: 1999 kz1000p hard to start when cold
01 Sep 2010 22:48
No where in that starting procedure do you mention that you Engage/Pull the Choke Lever, to assist in starting the bike when it is cold.
Please Advise

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- TeK9iNe
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Re: 1999 kz1000p hard to start when cold
02 Sep 2010 04:50 - 02 Sep 2010 04:58
tmstoltz wrote:
DO NOT open the throttle while starting the bike. This defeats the starting circuit designed into the carburetors. Use the choke, and pull it to full to start without throttle input. As the bike warms up, you decrease the amount of choke used till you can close it completely with anice smooth idle, then ride off.
Yeah... this is just hard on your engine.
You may not be using the choke, or your mixture adjustments are too lean/dirty pilot circuit. It restarts so quickly becuase the cylinders have warmed and it is much easier to ignite gas in warm cylinders than dead cold.
Check the wires and plug caps + all connections, but if the bike runs and idles fine once running, this is not likely the problem. PS - spark on cylinders 1-3 is the same as 2-4
I know, sounds weird but 1-4 and 2-3 actually fire through eachother on both the intake and exhaust stroke. Weird yeah, not the issue.
There's an interesting fact... What is your battery charge key off? Key on? Bike idling? Rev hold to 4000rpm, now?
Whens the last time you replaced the battery - every 3 yrs is a good regimine for powersport battery replacement, some last a little longer.
I suppose... :laugh:
ALSO - nothing helps an old bike out more than a little maintenence. Electrical for example: Spend a day and go through all of the electrical connections on the bike. Clean them all really good with round file/wire brush till they are shiney and new, then re-crimp them to a nice tight fit and elec tape over anything left exposed.
Have you checked the valve clearances lately? Changed oil + filter?
Ran a tank full of SeaFoam or other carb approved cleaner through?
??? Get back to us.
I try to start it and as it turns over it starts popping with the throttle open part way
DO NOT open the throttle while starting the bike. This defeats the starting circuit designed into the carburetors. Use the choke, and pull it to full to start without throttle input. As the bike warms up, you decrease the amount of choke used till you can close it completely with anice smooth idle, then ride off.
i rev it a few times then shut it off
Yeah... this is just hard on your engine.

then when i hit the start button it starts right away
You may not be using the choke, or your mixture adjustments are too lean/dirty pilot circuit. It restarts so quickly becuase the cylinders have warmed and it is much easier to ignite gas in warm cylinders than dead cold.
I checked the spark on all cylinders and it seems that the spark is weak on cylinders 1 and 3.
Check the wires and plug caps + all connections, but if the bike runs and idles fine once running, this is not likely the problem. PS - spark on cylinders 1-3 is the same as 2-4

the turn signals dont work
There's an interesting fact... What is your battery charge key off? Key on? Bike idling? Rev hold to 4000rpm, now?
Whens the last time you replaced the battery - every 3 yrs is a good regimine for powersport battery replacement, some last a little longer.
can you help me out with this problem?
I suppose... :laugh:
ALSO - nothing helps an old bike out more than a little maintenence. Electrical for example: Spend a day and go through all of the electrical connections on the bike. Clean them all really good with round file/wire brush till they are shiney and new, then re-crimp them to a nice tight fit and elec tape over anything left exposed.
Have you checked the valve clearances lately? Changed oil + filter?
Ran a tank full of SeaFoam or other carb approved cleaner through?
??? Get back to us.

Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors

Last edit: 02 Sep 2010 04:58 by TeK9iNe.
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- OneShoe50
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Re: 1999 kz1000p hard to start when cold
06 Sep 2010 05:44
I find the closer the temp gets to 40 deg F, the harder mine is to start. I just thought they were "cold blooded" so I'll let it run on the choke before I take off.
But the closer it gets to 40 deg F, the less I want to ride.
:S
But the closer it gets to 40 deg F, the less I want to ride.
:S
77 KZ1000A1 - Under going a psuedo ELR overhaul
79 KE175 (gone)
81 KZ550A2 (gone)
81 KZ750E (gone)
Sure it looks OK now, but wait until I really make it pretty, with some chrome and paint and some new tires and grips and the wiring. Don't forget the gearing, and the LED's and, and, and....
79 KE175 (gone)
81 KZ550A2 (gone)
81 KZ750E (gone)
Sure it looks OK now, but wait until I really make it pretty, with some chrome and paint and some new tires and grips and the wiring. Don't forget the gearing, and the LED's and, and, and....
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