Electrical Problems (Battery, Stator?) 77 KZ650 B1

So I finally got my bikes starter clutch fixed and now i have another problem. So here's the skinny. Ive got a new battery and the levels are good but im having to charge it almost every night. It seams as if my stator is not working at all. I'm wondering what the normal volt level that I should be seeing at the battery is while the bike is running. When Ive checked it, it can vary from around 11.4 to 12.5 and doesn't seam to increase when I throttle up. And if is the stator is there a way to fix it or is this something that I would have to replace? Also it seams as I have a dead short some where. I don't have the time or the drive to find out where it is so I was wondering if there a problem with putting an inline battery kill switch? The reason for me thinking this is, with the key off the positive terminal removed, my volt meter set to 20v and the leads in line meaning, the positive lead to cable and negative to terminal the meter is reading ~1.4 volts. I'm not really an electrical person but I'm guessing that this in not normal. Also does anybody know what the volt level on the battery needs to be at to start the bike?

Sorry for all the questions but im still a newb to bike and im trying to learn.

Thanks

ETA bike is a 77 KZ650 B1

with the bike running youre looking 14.5 voltsdc at around 4000 rpm or at least as close to that as possible, with the bike running you can check the the ac output of the stator find the stator plug it should have three yellow wires coming out of it put your meter probes between the yellows they should be reading between on most ac alternators 50-70 volts ac. if they do then you may have a problem with your rectifier.

You must not have very much draw on the system because you didn't blow your meter :laugh:

That's not the way to measure voltage, that's how you measure current (amps). If you had any kind of serious current draw you would have at least blown the fuse in your meter.

Most meters have the capability to measure up to 10 amps current on the amps (current) setting. That's when you would set it up inline.

You could use the resistance setting and measure the resistance between the positive wire (disconnected of course) and ground.

Yes you measured "current Draw" in volts with key off. This should be done with the meter on an AMP setting. Either way on your bike it should be zero. There are no modules like a modern car, unless you have wired in a radio or clock. Cars can have even a couple hundred Milli=amp draw with the key is first turned off, but then after 30min will"Go to sleep" and draw will drop below 50 Milli-amps.
You should put you bike info in your signature, so everyone can see the model.
So checking the AC stator voltage, is there 2 or 3 yellow wires coming up from the stator? 2 is a single phase,3 is a three phase. The single will be about 75ACV @4000, and the 3 phase about 50ACV @4000.

Sorry, its a 77 KZ650B1. So what does it mean when the bike is running and I've only got ~12.5 volt? Like I said I'm still a bike newb and not very electrically inclined. So you will have to bear with me. To check and see how much of a draw I have when the key is off what exactly do I need to do? And if I do have a draw with the key off will an inline kill switch "fix" the problem?

You would have the 2 wire single phase stator, so you need to start there since your charging is low to confirm the stator is good:cheer: , or bad . So to start you should have a manual to follow. But with out one you need to disconnect the 2 yellow wires from the stator and check the ACV output at around 4000RPM, should be near 75ACV. If that checks out you're golden, problem is either in the connections, or the regulator/ rectifier, not sure if you have separate units or if it is all one unit.
There is somewhere on site a download of a manual, also much has been written already on testing. Mfolks has some at most charging threads, easy to follow.
Your description before, where you disconnected then put your meter in series with the battery cable and post connection, that is a "Draw" test. If you have everything off but show a draw, then pull fuses, not sure how many you have, or un plug connectors till its gone. Then you know which circuit or part is drawing current out of the battery with key off.

Try this for troubleshooting:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.


To help isolate where the problem is, hook up the testing devises(light,buzzer etc.)and start by removing the fuses until the buzzer or light stop working, this way, pin pointing what circuit is affecting the drain on your battery can help in the repair.

csutke wrote:

So I finally got my bikes starter clutch fixed and now i have another problem. So here's the skinny. Ive got a new battery and the levels are good but im having to charge it almost every night. It seams as if my stator is not working at all. I'm wondering what the normal volt level that I should be seeing at the battery is while the bike is running.

14V with revs above 3k.


csutke wrote:

Also does anybody know what the volt level on the battery needs to be at to start the bike?

When cranking the starter, the battery voltage has to hold at about 9V or better to start the engine.

A 77 650 has a 3-phase excited field alternator with a separate rectifier and regulator.

Here's some info on how to check the '77 charging system, courtesy of rstnick:


img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/rstnick/...ms/77Dynamotest3.jpg
img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/rstnick/...ms/77Dynamotest2.jpg
img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/rstnick/...ms/77Dynamotest1.jpg