kz1000 cranks but wont start

I jsut bought a 1993 KZ1000 Police. it cranks good but there is no spark. i dont seem to be getting power to the coils. Is the solenoid bad or something else. I have pawer to everything but the turn signals. any help?????

Check your fuses first before tearing into the wiring.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

Remove the gas tank, and with the ignition "On" check the RED wire going to the ignition coils(use a multimeter set on Volts D.C., range of 20). Put the RED probe on the terminal where the RED wire goes, and the BLACK probe on either a good frame ground or the battery Negative post.

If no voltage, then open up the right handle bar switch pod for the run/stop and start switch, looking for dirty contacts/broken wiring.

If still no voltage, look inside the headlight housing for dirty connectors/broken wiring.

the run stop switch connections ar all clean. i have power into teh soleniod but the wires that lead from it to the colis have no juice. i havent tried testing them while turning it over yet, (too late tonight). does the fairing have to be on and plugged in??....wont have my repair manuel until thursday. Oh all the fuses have power except the one labeled flasher and they bypassed the 30amp and put in a vehicle style 30amp fuse.

I have a 1999 kz1000 police and im haveing troubles too. does yours make a popping nois when you try to start it? mine does but if i put it out in the sun and let it get warm it will start but still has a week spark and my turn signals stopped working. im leaning twards the ic ignighter but if you buy oem its expensive almost 400.00 im looking at a dyna s system from pingel enterprizes.com for 154.00. i dont know what it has to do with the turn signals but i do know the turn sig controler is located next to the ic unit on the bottom right of the batt. box the ic unit on the right front maby heat is a factor. and there is a yellow and black wire that goes from the ic unit to the turn sig. circut. possibly a bad connection. and on the l.side under the side cover is a group of plugs make sure you have good clean connections. tim.

Same problem here, man. Exact same bike. I have not tracked the issue down but my gut is telling me I messed up the fancy black box.

Well, i got this one figured out. Turns out the folks I bought it from robbed the ignition relay off it. got one for ten bucks from th auto parts store.

now the new issue is that the bike will go inot a high idle all on its own. took it around the block and it revved up to about 6000rpm and held there. saw some post on this issue so now i gotta try to fix it.

Al i want is to able to go ride and use the bike to commute to work. ARRRGGHHHH stressful!!!!

My rear turn signal havent gotten here yet. The front one dont work but im waiting to put the rears on until i tackle that problem. i figure as long as the headlight, tail light and brake light work I'm good and at lest it looks legal if i get stopped.

Get the FSM, Kawasaki Service Manual, and perform all of the maintenence chapter before attempting to put the bike into regular service. If you do not, you will deffinately have many more issues, i assure you.

Turn signals/flashers/highbeam/weak coils, or not working is all tell-tale signs of poor connections/or bad wires between circuits.

Make sure ALL grounds are immaculate, including the ground from the rect/reg unit in the charging circuit.

Remove the seat, tank, and headlight, and start pulling apart each connector, and blow it out with a serious non-oxidizing contact cleaner. Use a small file or sandpaper to make them shiney and new again, then spray again and make sure they re-assemble firmly. If in doubt about the status of a connector, solder it.

A bike that revs up on its own when you release the throttle and it tries to return to the carb idle circuit, is either leaking air around the carb-to-engine holders, or elswhere in the linkage, or too low a float level, or an obstruction in the pilot jet/passage, or a sticking throttle.

GET THE MANUAL. You will love it. It will be your bible, and save you $$$, headaches, and possibly skin.

Best of luck.

I have a police kz1000, The first prob i found was my handle bar heater shorted out,killing my start button .try disconnecting handle bar heaters they sometimes short out inside the handlebars

I bought the Clymers Maunel already. Should i still invest in the FSM Too.

Yes, the Clymer,Haynes and Chilton do not go into depth the FSM does.