1974 Z1 900

May be missing in your reply but as can be reviewed in the attached image....

As Patton mentioned, you have a splice off the switched +12Vdc feeding power into the ignition plate, red conductor... The splice block from the Dyna has caused others issues versus splicing and soldering the junction....
Defineitely verify +12Vdc or higher is at the ignition plate feed into the pickups.

Also, infollowing the static alignemnt tests, not sure you answered this or I just didn;t understand but in doing so, if your auto light is turning on & off accodringly on the green or balck conductor feeds into the coil then the Dyna ignition is not your problem...

In other words, as your rotating the magnet rotor via the crank rotations to 1/4 & 2/3 TDC..... No light/DVM +12Vdc then either no +12Vdc to the ignition plate or both pickups are shot...

Is it possible both sensors are shot, sure but my gut feeling is as Patton brought up, missing +12Vdc to the plate... One pick shot, sure can happen but both simulataneously... hmmmm, me wonder.....

Thanks again "Old Man Rock" Just went out and retested, and now she doesn't even crank. Also she does not is Tick, test battery and it reads 10.21 volts. Placed back on tender, waiting for battery to recharge. Again thanks for the help.

Oh and your pick is of the Dyna S, I have a Dyna III.

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Could a bad battery cause the problems I am having?

Grapes5x wrote:

Could a bad battery cause the problems I am having?

... yes, unfortunately. All testing requires known good battery, new is best.

I like to use a car batt while testing, but some individuals seem to think that is an issue...
which it isn't.

GL.

TeK9iNe wrote:

Grapes5x wrote:

Could a bad battery cause the problems I am having?

... yes, unfortunately. All testing requires known good battery, new is best.

I like to use a car batt while testing, but some individuals seem to think that is an issue...
which it isn't.

GL.

as long as it isnt attached to a running car/truck battery it isnt an issue...