Still weak ignition on K440.

This is a K440 with brkr point ignition. In testing the coil, the primary (small wires) read 3.5 ohms. The HT plug wires give erratic readings of 20K on up. With the plug caps removed, the HT coil wires read 13.5K solid. Each plug cap reads approx 5K. all added together this gives the 20K+ readings.. I'm using a Fluke and a Triplett analogue meter and getting the same results on both. Clymers calls for 10-16K for the plug wires including the plug caps, so I think maybe I have a bad coil. Any ideas before buying a new coil?? Thanks.

Are all connections good and clean?
How about new caps?(allmost impossible to clean)
Did you trim back the HT leads to get a good conection?
A coil off of a later 4 cyl. with an igniter ign. has removable leads.
Will require you to fabricate a bracket.
You then can use performance plug wire for auto use.
The purist will beg to differ,but it will work to get you by.

all connections are clean, and the HT leads have been trimmed. havent tried new caps, i guess i will do that next.
Also have new plugs. any suggestions on new high perf. coil or other type of permenent replacement ideas?

Thanks

Accel,Dyna.....a later stock 4 cyl. coil would be cheaper and almost as good as far as output.

the coil i have was originally on a 400,do you happen to know if this could be the problem?

same coil,same points

Might be insufficient voltage reaching the coil.

With ignition switch ON, what is voltage at coil primary?

Good Fortune!

mooney wrote:

This is a K440 with brkr point ignition. In testing the coil, the primary (small wires) read 3.5 ohms. The HT plug wires give erratic readings of 20K on up. With the plug caps removed, the HT coil wires read 13.5K solid. Each plug cap reads approx 5K. all added together this gives the 20K+ readings.. I'm using a Fluke and a Triplett analogue meter and getting the same results on both. Clymers calls for 10-16K for the plug wires including the plug caps, so I think maybe I have a bad coil. Any ideas before buying a new coil?? Thanks.

Z1 sells the four Ohm OEM style replacement coil for $36. Put new caps on and you will be good to go. make sure your points and condenser are good.

Its good that you have a couple of good meters.
A very simple test can determine if your coil will create spark good enough for service. But only a constant test will show if it breaks down when hot.
So I would supply a fresh wire, with a 10amp fuse directly to the coil, then a fresh wire touching intermittently to ground, in a scratch motion. You should get a reasonable blue spark every time. If not, and you already measured the wire ends, I think you need a coil. Be sure to use a couple of good plugs during this. If it does work, blue spark, then as Patton says check voltage to ignition primary side, red/ yellow I believe. You can try your Fresh positive fused wire here and crank to check for continued spark, if good spark then it is the voltage feed, other wise its on the negative/ points side.

Thanks guys i replaced the coil and it fired right up.