78 KZ650

I have a 1978 KZ650. About a week ago the starter stopped working. When I press the starter button, nothing happens, not even a click. Battery is fully charged and all lights work. I can still kick start it. Could it be the starter button? If so, can it be taken apart and fixed? Replaced? The switch on the clutch looks ok. Can it be tested? Thanks for your help.

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm (not sure if the website is still viable)


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

13. On the right handlebar switch pod is the run/stop switch and the start button, disconnect the Negative battery terminal for safety, and open up the switch assemblies. Dead bugs,corrosion and dirt can be causing your problems.

14.Use a good brand of electrical contact cleaner on the switch contacts BUT NOT WD-40! I found that over time it becomes a non coductor causing electrically intermittent operations.

Usually a starter switch will slowly get intermittant, and canusually work if you give it a good wiggle.

A solenoid/starter relay on the other hand, does tend to go POOF, gone, no more clicky.

You can simply jump the solonoid/relay with a set of jumper cables or a screwdriver, and the starter should come to life immediately upon doing so.

Heres a wiring diagram to help:
The relay is directly off the batt, on positve large cable.

Sorry if picture is not great, but you can find a better one in the filebase here.

GL!

Thanks to both of you. I will try these things.

On my KZ1000 M1 my starter switch has gradually gotten worse--sometimes works, sometimes it takes several times pushing the button to get the starter solenoid to engage. I have reverted to wiggling the button to get it to work and usually it does eventually make contact, but this week finally took the housing apart. I havent actually taken the switch apart for cleaning but will probably tonight. I will let you know how it works--or doesn't work.
Grant.

Sounds good. Thanks.

Open up the right handlebar switch pod/assembly and check for corrosion/dead bugs/broken wires. A little piece of 400-600 grit sandpaper might be all you'll need to clean up the electrical contacts.

I got it fixed! Took the starter switch apart and cleaned contacts. Noticed the plastic rim on push button was broken preventing button from going all of the way in. Trimmed off the platic and glued button back on. Works great. Thanks again for everyones help!

Simple repairs are sometimes the most rewarding,instead of throwing money at this by taking the bike to a shop,you've learned troubleshooting and repair.

You are right. I am sure it would have cost a fortune. I don't want to put a lot of money into an old bike.