78 Kz650 dead

Today I was cruising around and randomly my bike just died. Everything died, no power, nothing. Kickstart won't do it. I did notice that before this happened, none of the lights on the neutral light box thing would work. Anyone know what could cause this? Short? bad coil? I couldn't see a spark from the plug.

Check your fuses, it's a common failure on these older bikes.Go and get some AGX type fuses from the local auto parts stores.Probably 10 and 20 amp rating.

If this does not correct the problem, check the ignition switch,run/stop switch on the right handlebar and related electrical connectors inside the headlight housing.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

I would check the fuses first then maybe the regulator rectifier

Ok, I checked the fuses, and the large one is shot. What is the large fuse for?

It's probably the 20 amp main fuse, without it nothing works, like ignition,lights etc.

Omaha Rider wrote:

Ok, I checked the fuses, and the large one is shot. What is the large fuse for?

This link is to a downloadable wiring diagram:
Click > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...w&gid=118&Itemid=108

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

Does anyone know what generally causes these main fuses to blow? If the fuse went, then there is probably a short somewhere and it will do it agian?

Omaha Rider wrote:

Does anyone know what generally causes these main fuses to blow? If the fuse went, then there is probably a short somewhere and it will do it agian?

Does the fuse look burnt and melted inside with a scorch mark? Then it probably blew from a random short as you suspect.

But if it looks clean but melted or collapsed, then it may just be dirty fuse holders or dirty wire connection at the fuse holder. This means the fuse melted from overheating, not a short. Cleaning the connector will usually fix that.

If the fuse blowing persists, It's time to start this procedure:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.