Starter just clicks?

Hope this isn't a stupid question; The starter on my '82 KZ750-4 sometimes turns a little slow, but it always starts. Today I went out to ride and the starter (or selonoid actually) just clicks, only rarely just budging over. It's like the battery is dead...BUT, the headlight is nice and bright! No previous starter problems, and this certainly hasn't happened before. However, I've been having voltage regulator problems where the battery has not been getting a charge all the time. Perhaps I've dragged the battery too low? If so, why is the headlight nice and bright?
Help!

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm (not sure if the website is still viable)


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.


Does the headlight dim when you try to start the engine?I'd suggest to first bridge the heavy duty terminals and see if the starter turns. If it's still slow turning doing this check, maybe the starter needs to be looked at for worn brushes, or dirty commutator.

polkat wrote:

Hope this isn't a stupid question; The starter on my '82 KZ750-4 sometimes turns a little slow, but it always starts. Today I went out to ride and the starter (or selonoid actually) just clicks, only rarely just budging over. It's like the battery is dead...BUT, the headlight is nice and bright! No previous starter problems, and this certainly hasn't happened before. However, I've been having voltage regulator problems where the battery has not been getting a charge all the time. Perhaps I've dragged the battery too low? If so, why is the headlight nice and bright?
Help!

Sounds like a low battery, and/or failing to hold a charge.

May aid diagnosis to try jumping with known good car battery (car engine NOT running).

Also, could disconnect headlight connector (inside headlight shell) to see whether headlight current draw was affecting current supplied to starter from an already weak battery.

Would check battery specific gravity and have it load tested.

Good Fortune!

Well, one thing I just noticed is that the positive (+) battery post has cracked and is just holding on by a thread! I guess enough juice is getting through for the headlight, but not enough for the starter.

Even if that's not the problem, is there any way to save this battery (it was fairly new and strong) or is it junk now? Are there any repair kits or methods for attaching a new post (I doubt it).?

I'd ask at the local battery shops. Most post's are lead on batteries. They might be able to repair it if the crack is not too far down toward the seperators.