Electric dead after fall

I took a little tumble today. Nothing big, slow speed, just a scrape on my leg and a busted front turn signal. Fortunately I was only about a mile from home. At first the bike (1988 KZ 305 LTD) seemed fine, but now the electric system seems to have died.

Here's the whole story...

The bike went down on its right side and busted the right hand turn signal off the handlebar.

I cut the engine, dusted off my pride and stood the bike up. Checked everything and it all looked OK (except the turn signal), so I started the bike back up.

Went about 50 feet and the bike seemed to loose all power for a second then kick back in. Went another 50 or so feet, came to a hill and about half way up the hill the bike sputtered and died.

Re-starting it was a bear. It finally restarted, this happened one more time on my way home, again it was a real bear to get restarted, but I finally made it home.

I went out to start working on the busted turn signal, turned the ignition on and checked that the light was still working. Everything seemed fine, lights worked, it was just a busted mount.

Then the next time I turned on the ignition, nothing. Totally dead. I figured the battery was just drained because of all the attempts at starting, so I pulled it and put it on a charger for a few hours.

Once the charger said the battery was fully charged, I put the battery back in and tried again. No dice. Still nothing. I turn the ignition on and get no lights, no turn signal, no horn, nothing.

Any ideas of what this could be?

Some checking to do:

1.Battery Negative(-)ground, clean and tight?

2.Look at the glass tubed fuses,check for secured metal end caps, they can fail but still look good. The AGX sized fuse is what can with the bike, the bigger AGC fuses may not fit the fuse clips.

3.Check the Positive(+) battery connection to the starter solenoid as this is usually a tie place for the ignition circuits.

4.Open up the headlight housing,checking for loose connections.

5.The run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod may be damaged from the fall. Open it up looking for loose wires/broken contacts.

could be an intermittent short. When they fall on a turn signal it stretches the wires at the right turn going in and can cut the insulation.

Blow any fuses?

Mfolks suggested checking the fuses too and no I haven't done that yet. That'll be the next thing I check.

The hot wire to the turn signal was definitely stretched and it did tear the insulation. Might have broken the connection, it's kind of hard to tell without ripping it all the way apart and doing more damage. I wrapped that lead in some electrical tape to keep it from shorting, but until I get the rest of the electrical back I won't know whether or not there's still a functioning connection there.

I'm going to have to replace the turn signal, but I'd like to get the rest of the electrical working in the mean time and I'm crossing my fingers that the turn signal can be salvaged at least until I get a replacement.

Blow any fuses?

I think you guys called it with this one. The main fuse is blown. I don't have any spares lying around so I'll have to make a trip to the store before I can replace it.

The fuse in the box is a 10A but the label on the fuse box cover says that one should be a 20A. I guess I'll get a couple of both.

That did the trick. I got a 20A fuse to replace the blown main fuse and I seem to be back in business. Turn signal still works too which is nice.

The bike is still running a little funny after the fall. It was a little hard to start and then when it did it would idle real low almost stalling, then I'd give it a little gas and it would rev up really high and not come back down even after I let off the throttle.

If this continues I'll start a new post as it isn't really related to the original electric problem.

Thanks Mfolks and bountyhunter for suggesting I check the fuses!

I try to start with the simple things first when trouble shooting. If you plan on keeping the bike, changing the fuses to the "Blade Type" used in cars and newer bikes is a good idea.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

A forum member "Otakar" did a write up a while back about doing the replacing of the older fuse clips in his bike.

The fall may have knocked some crud loose in your gas tank, drop the float bowls on the carbs for an inspection.

I understand that lawn mower filters seem to work the best for motorcycles as they are less restrictive than what is sold at auto parts stores.

Thanks for all the great info!