Compatible stator years for 1982 KZ1000 LTD

I am wondering what years are compatible, And if there are any other models, that will work as well..

As always, thannk you in advance for the assistance..

Scott

Try www.electrosport.com for a good troubleshooting page. Their stators are overwound to produce a higher output at low rpm levels.

I guess what I am wondering is, what other years will fit my bike.. If that site can tell me that, I guess I missed how to find that out..
You know, kinda like a cross refrence of motor parts that will interchange..


If anyone can help, that sure would be great!!

1981 -2008 kz1000 chain drive all models imo....

which means they can be picked up used in good working shape dirt cheap...it is the same as all years of kz1000 from 1981 on and it is the same as all cop bikes from 81 till present and can be found on e-bay cheap under kz1000p or kz1000 j-model ........good luck....


iwould not pay more than 25-35 plus 10-15 shipping...if none around ...one will pop up cheap any day...it worked for me and my(1981 kz1000 j motor )....peace....

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationi am no expert...but others here are and, should confirm my advice or offer another view...please wait for another take before bidding...95% sure on this one though members

example.......

Here is Ma Kaw's list of bikes that used the same stator as your 82.

KZ1000-J1 (1981)
KZ1000-J2 (1982)
KZ1000-J3 (1983)
KZ1000-K1 (LTD) (1981)
KZ1000-K2 (LTD) (1982)
KZ1000-M1 (CSR) (1981)
KZ1000-M2 (CSR) (1982)
KZ1000-P1 (Police 1000) (1982)
KZ1000-P10 (Police 1000) (1991)
KZ1000-P11 (Police 1000) (1992)
KZ1000-P12 (Police 1000) (1993)
KZ1000-P13 (Police 1000) (1994)
KZ1000-P14 (Police 1000) (1995)
KZ1000-P2 (Police 1000) (1983)
KZ1000-P3 (Police 1000) (1984)
KZ1000-P4 (Police 1000) (1985)
KZ1000-P5 (Police 1000) (1986)
KZ1000-P6 (Police 1000) (1987)
KZ1000-P7 (Police 1000) (1988)
KZ1000-P8 (Police 1000) (1989)
KZ1000-P9 (Police 1000) (1990)
KZ1000-R1 (Eddie Lawson Replica) (1982)
KZ1000-R2 (Eddie Lawson Replica) (1983)
KZ1100-A1 (Shaft) (1981)
KZ1100-A2 (Shaft) (1982)
KZ1100-A3 (Shaft) (1983)
KZ1100-B1 (GPz) (1981)
KZ1100-B2 (GPz) (1982)
KZ1100-D1 (Spectre) (1982)
KZ1100-D2 (Spectre) (1983)
KZ1100-L1 (LTD Shaft) (1983)
ZN1100-B1 (LTD Shaft) (1984)
ZN1100-B2 (LTD Shaft) (1985)
ZX1100-A1 (GPz) (1983)
ZX1100-A2 (GPz) (1984)

I have one from a 93 1000P in my 82.

Yes, the one Tri has posted up will work on your bike.

Hey thank you very much.. I didn't want to get one used off ebay until I was sure.. Already changed rectifier and didn't cure charging problem.. Next is the checking the stator, and if that is the problem, then now I know what to do..

Thanks again!!!!
Scott

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place.

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.

________________________________________________________

Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators:

A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.


6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

Thanks Folks.. I am sure that will be very helpful in determining the rest of my situation..

I would like to thank all who have responded and your help is greatly appreciated!!

Scott

Hey MFolks if you had a nickle every time you put that up.
I know you did for me once.
And I thank you.

No problem! I have quite a few procedures stored in my system, so I just find the related one(s) and cut and paste.