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Wiring schematic
- TerryK
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1977 KZ1000
GSXR swingarm and rear brake
WM6 rear Akront rim
Wiseco 1075c pistons
33 smoothbores
stage 3 Web Cams
Head porting
Dyna S ignition
Lockhart oil cooler
Wiseco header
1980 Z1R drag bike
1200cc
38 Flatslides, .
500' cams
7" slick
Dyan 4000 SP ignition
etc
Ontario, Canada
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- Old Man Rock
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1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Rainman
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- Sustaining Member
- and a little Kaw shall lead them
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Good Luck,
Jim
80 KZ750 H1 - the Kaw calf
79 KZ750 Twin - Miss Nov 2008 KZR calander
79 KZ750 Twin parts bike
78 KZ650 C2 Parts Bike
75 KZ400 Wife's old bike sold
81 KZ440 A2 LTD Wife's new bike
84 Honda 450 Rebel Wife's newest bike
Jim
Quincy,IL
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- Old Man Rock
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i.e. bare bones, electric start/kick start only, no lights or brake etc....
Once known, I can clean up the previous image for you...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- TerryK
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Terry.. What exactly are you looking for?
i.e. bare bones, electric start/kick start only, no lights or brake etc....
Once known, I can clean up the previous image for you...
OMR
Well, I'm trying to track down a short and I figured if I had a schematic without lights/horn etc it would be easier to track down. (I have disconnected all lights etc and the problem persists)
That make sense? lol
1977 KZ1000
GSXR swingarm and rear brake
WM6 rear Akront rim
Wiseco 1075c pistons
33 smoothbores
stage 3 Web Cams
Head porting
Dyna S ignition
Lockhart oil cooler
Wiseco header
1980 Z1R drag bike
1200cc
38 Flatslides, .
500' cams
7" slick
Dyan 4000 SP ignition
etc
Ontario, Canada
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- otakar
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- User
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- TerryK
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If you tell us what the problem is Maybe we can help you. The schematic that you see is about all you will find.
Well, thats a tough one to explain. Main thing is it's blowing the main fuse as soon as I turn the key on. I dug into it at the track and found the front braided steel brake hose grounding out to the headlight bracket! lol
It actually ruined the hose.
Not sure how the hose could become hot, but I disconnected just about everything unnecessary for the bike to run from the bars and it seemed to help...for 2 passes, then it blew the fuse again. Checked all the wires in the control switches and everything looked good.
1977 KZ1000
GSXR swingarm and rear brake
WM6 rear Akront rim
Wiseco 1075c pistons
33 smoothbores
stage 3 Web Cams
Head porting
Dyna S ignition
Lockhart oil cooler
Wiseco header
1980 Z1R drag bike
1200cc
38 Flatslides, .
500' cams
7" slick
Dyan 4000 SP ignition
etc
Ontario, Canada
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- MFolks
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The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!
Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)
1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.
2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.
3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.
4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.
5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.
6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).
7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.
8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.
9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).
10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.
11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.
12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- TerryK
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- Posts: 614
- Thank you received: 3
1977 KZ1000
GSXR swingarm and rear brake
WM6 rear Akront rim
Wiseco 1075c pistons
33 smoothbores
stage 3 Web Cams
Head porting
Dyna S ignition
Lockhart oil cooler
Wiseco header
1980 Z1R drag bike
1200cc
38 Flatslides, .
500' cams
7" slick
Dyan 4000 SP ignition
etc
Ontario, Canada
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.