Suddenly will not crank

Ok so I am riding home and the bike cuts out. I have been having an issue with the ignition fuse, so I pull over and fiddle with it. I get the electical going again, and get on to ride off. I hit the starte button, and it turns but does not fire. The battery sounds a little weak

I get a guy to come with some jumper cables and hook up to his car. I go to crank and it turns over perfect. I hold down the button but am getting no sound of fuel igniting. I fo get some gas just to be sure it is not empty. Turn to prime and try again with nothing. I try push start. I hole down the button and pop the clutch while reving the engine in first. I get a small amount of runling but t cuts out.

Ok guys, I am lost at where to start. I out this in electrical since it is ignition and started with a fuse. I did not disconnect anything between firing right up to nothing. There is a clear vacuum tube running under the battery box with neither end on anything. Please help, and break it down as I am nubie. Thanks

Did you put in a new fuse of the correct rating? Check the back side of the fuse block as if it has been getting hot it may have a bad connection now. Sound like you are losing voltage to the coils, do you have a test light or Volt meter? You can make a test light with a spare bulb, check the small red wire to you ignition coil for battery voltage with key on, should be 12v or so.

Try a fresh set of plugs,simple and one of the 1st things to try.

The clear tube you mentioned sounds to me like the battery vent line. It's designed to have one end connected to the battery to vent excess hydrogen or water if the battery overcharges.

The other end is open, so don't try to connect it to anything.

As for why the bike won't fire up, I'd start with new fuses and go from there. The glass tubed fuses are AGX in size( 1/4" diameter and 1" long). The more standard AGC fuses may not fit the holder/clips.

Most good auto parts stores can get the AGX fuses for you, just make sure the right amp rating is in the correct clip/holder.

Most bikes use 10 and 20 amp fuses.

Coworker said it is likely a wire going to the coil, or the coil itself. Does this sound likely?

On a related note, I was planning on getting my trickle charger going to recharge the battery. It has 3 settings (I forget off hand which ones). What is the best setting to put it on?

Bikes can turn over(crank) but not make the engine run as they are two seperate systems.

When people say it won't start, It means to me that both ignition and cranking systems need looking at.

Try this procedure to check out the cranking system:

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm (not sure if the website is still viable)


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

Take some time to go through all the wiring and make sure that every connection on the bike is good and clean and tight. It might sound daughnting at first, but before you know ait a couple hours later (like 5-6 beers) and your done! ...and your done too... :laugh:

Then setup your ignition perfect. Timing, advancer cleaned and lubed.

Then hit the carbs... Fuel height, turn the air screws in till stumble, then out till stumble, then leave at the mid point. If no stumble turning one way, then issue with clogged or incorrect pilot jet.

A GOOD VACUUM SYNC IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, SO GET A MANOMETER OR MAKE ONE, ELSE YOUR JUST WASTING YOUR TIME!

Cheers!