Fuse (hopefully) issue

Ok, so I had a problem with my ignition switch, which I fixed over the weekend. Long story short, the bike fired right up and worked great. Went out for a ride and it cut off mid-ride. After fiddling around some, it came back on when I removed and reinserted [same old] fuse (bottom one between battery and ignition). Put the cover back on, turned key and it would not light. Pulled same fuse out again and put back, fired right up and rode home. Went to store, when I parked at store and came out it would not work. Took out same fuse and put back in, fired right up. This morning it would not start, I pulled the same fuse but it would not go. Tried a couple different times. Any thoughts on what the issue may be? Should I just try a new fuse? You think the contacts are dirty? I really do not want to get into an issue with rewiring...

Try cleaning the clips on the fuse up really well, make them shine when you clean it. These old fuse boxes develop a lot of problems after 25+ years!! If it still has problems after polishing up the clips it's time to start looking for the bad wire.

Kinda what I thought. I looked at the clips and they look like there is some corrosion on there. Man I hope that is all it is. Any good products to use/not use when cleaning them?

Wire wheel on a dremel is what I used on mine. Shined it up double quick and fixed all my fuse issues. You could also replace the old style fuses with a blade style block (or even several of the in-line blade holders). Cheap and easy to do that way also.

I painfully found out that even though the old fuses look good,they often arent. I would replace them all.bj

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

Interesting on swappig it out. I may have to do that. Is there a good spot to screw it down to?

As for the right now, the 20A fuse that is the issue is larger than the two 10A fuses above it. Is this not right. My fist thought when I saw it was that they had forced a larger fuse into a smaller clip. Do they sell the right size tube fuse at an auto parts store or home depot? Anyone have a link to order the right size?

I got the fuse to work right again by a very specific orientation of he clip and fuse. If the clip moves at all it does not work. A new fuse and a good cleaning are in order.

-edit- thanks for the thorough response above. Just want to be a little redundant for the sake of total clarity.

Tube fuses need to be thrown away every couple of years.

The 550 should have two 10A for lights and one 20A fuse as the main.