throttle cable

OK fellas, got my bike back together, it runs OK. My problem is some where in the throttle. Never worked with a accelerator decelerator cable before, and I can not get my brain around how they function. I have read both of the manuals but I still do not get it. I guess what I want too know is, are there any tips/tricks you folks can share with me? Thanx for your time and efforts ... PEACE Larry I almost forgot it is a 1977 KZ650B1

One cable pulls the throttles open, the other is attached to the opposite side of the throttle mechanism and pulls the throttles closed.
Adjust per fsm and ride it like you stole it.

Either that or ditch the push cable in the trash. With lower than stock bars on a KZ1000 I literally tried for 3 yrs to make the push/pull work together but it wouldn't so I had basically a cruise control because the throttle would stick constantly. I finally cut the inner cable of the push disabling it and left the outer cable on so it looked stock and not hacked and used the pull only which needless to say works just fine. Push/pull works ok on all my stock motorcycles, but not necessary.

There are adjustments at the handlebars and down by the carbs on the cables. Try the handlebar adjustments first

For eons, only a single throttle cable was fitted to pull the carb slides open. And a spring was relied upon to pull the slides closed. Many of the return springs were located inside the carbs.

If in the rare event that the return spring failed, or the throttle cable hung up for whatever reason, the engine would not return to idle rpm. And, yikes, runaway bike. :woohoo:
Okay, that's what kill switches are for.

The second throttle cable was added, imo, to serve as a fail-safe means whereby the throttle slides could be manually pulled closed without relying on a spring to pull them closed.

Some riders tire of the ultra stiff throttle return spring, and simply remove the spring. Which allows throttle control both up and down with very little effort. But must remember to manually close the throttle, which quickly becomes a habit.

One risk is a dropped bike with runaway throttle, that won't close the throttle automatically absent human control, which may result in engine damage and other bad things.

I opt for the simple friction type throttle control, but realize and accept the risk involved.

Have also experimented with replacing the super-stiff oem return spring with a softer hardware store spring. Which actually works pretty well.

Good Fortune!

Thank you one and all. I think that push cable is outta there!!