Oil light on when clutch engaged

Maltraxxx wrote:

Oil level is fine if not a bit high, but it wouldnt explain my problem. I rode the bike only twice 5 km since I own it... I didnt notice if it did that the first time.

I dont understand how that could possible: low oil pressure when idling? Euh....!?!?!

The oil pump is geared to the crankshaft. So when you apply the throttle the pump works harder and drives more oil around. I'd be curious about the state of your pump and pickup screen etc.

1984 ZN1100

Another question --- If "clutch lever is squeezed" and "throttle is released" simultaneously, does oil light turn on?

Good Fortune!

More questions ---

When ignition switch is turned ON before the bike is cranked, does the oil light come on (as it's supposed to)?

With bike idling in neutral, is oil light ON?

With bike idling in neutral, does blipping the throttle have any effect on the oil light coming on?

With bike engine running at 4000 rpm in neutral, is the oil light on? If the throttle is closed so bike returns to idle rpm, does the oil light come on?

What happens to oil light if rpm in neutral is reduced from 4000 rpm to 3000 rpm? Or 2000 rpm?

Can the reported phenomenon be reproduced with engine running and transmission in neutral?

Am trying to determine if the reported condition is purely throttle related, or if force of deceleration has anything to do with it.

Good Fortune!

You need to hook up a gauge so you can find out the "Real" oil pressure. The switch could have a weak spring or worn internals, if it grounds out it should turn on the light, below 6psi I think. A thicker oil viscosity may help, or a new switch, check it with a gauge.
Also the oil pressure relief valve could have a weak or collapsed spring, its in the filter banjo bolt on my bikes.

I'll perform a few tests this pm.

I have an oil temp gauge installed on this bike (installed by the previous owner).

Could this unit give me hints on anything regarding this issue?

If oil pressure is low, temperature should increase, no?

I did al the tests Patton talked about. The light was on when I turned the key, as it should be.

And it never turned on after that. On neutral, in gears, with clutch, without clutch, idling or at 4 000RPM.

This would probably mean the light turns on only when riding - when engine is hot - and that the engine is idling at a red light or whenever I stop...

Samwell wrote:

Maltraxxx wrote:

Oil level is fine if not a bit high, but it wouldnt explain my problem. I rode the bike only twice 5 km since I own it... I didnt notice if it did that the first time.

I dont understand how that could possible: low oil pressure when idling? Euh....!?!?!

The oil pump is geared to the crankshaft. So when you apply the throttle the pump works harder and drives more oil around. I'd be curious about the state of your pump and pickup screen etc.

what he said,but first id screw a gauge on to the motor before tearing things apart to make sure

Maltraxxx wrote:

I'll perform a few tests this pm.

I have an oil temp gauge installed on this bike (installed by the previous owner).

Could this unit give me hints on anything regarding this issue?

If oil pressure is low, temperature should increase, no?

All the temp gauge will tell you is ... well ... temp.

Couldn't find a wiring diagram for your bike but maybe the same principles as the KZ900/1000 series....

The oil sending units are basically a mechanical spring activated switch to engine case ground... With oil pressure within spec, no indicator light... If pressures are below spec, this sending unit will p[ass ground to the indicator oil lamp.

With this in mind, you could do the following for testing....

With an air fan on the engine, start the engine and warm up to operation temps... With ignition switched turned to on position, the indicator lamp should turn on due to no pressure build up yet. Start the engine and the lamp should turn off within a couple of seconds thus indicating pressure build up that deactivates the sending unit switch...

Remove the harness conductor clip off the top of the oil sending unit and place a DVM for continuity confirmations of switch activation...

DVM black on engine or battery ground...
DVM red on sensor top post...
Set meter for resistance measurements.

If operating correctly, you should have infinite (open) resistance measurements on a running engine...

You could also use a oil pressure gauge to insure oil pump is generating the specified pressures. Anyone know what the oil pressure specs are for this model?

You could do the same in a bypassed testing configuration... Wire a 12Vdc lamp to the battery or switched 12V line.... Wire the other pin of the 12V lamp to the top of the oil sending unit....

Take her for a ride... Lamp operate to spec... If so, problem definitely in your wiring harness, instrument cluster, head light shell etc....

Just some ideas....

OMR

I concur with OMR.

With zero oil pressure (or too low pressure), the oil pressure switch is supposedly closed, allowing continuity to ground.

With ignition switch ON, the oil light should shine only when its wire is grounding through the pressure switch.

With sufficient oil pressure, the oil pressure switch is supposedly open, disallowing continuity to ground.

Perhaps the wire from indicator light is somehow grounding before it reaches the pressure switch. Such as a bare spot in the wire that touches something when the bike is being ridden.

Could experiment by disconnecting wire at oil pressure switch (to prevent grounding through the switch).
Tape off the wire end to keep it from flailing around.
Absent ground, the oil light won't shine.

Test ride in effort to replicate the symptoms.
If oil light shines, the wire is reaching ground when it's not supposed to (i.e., improperly grounding somewhere besides through the pressure switch).

Good Fortune!