11.7 V to the Coil but no Spark ...NOW what ?

Let's say the Dyna-S is now assembled correctly, and you're ready to set the ignition timing.

The advancer will probably have markings similar to one of these.



Ignore the T mark, which means "Top Dead Center, and isn't used for ignition timing.

Use only the F marks for ignition timing.
The F means "Fire."

There's an F mark for the outside spark plugs #1 and #4.

There's another F mark for the inside spark plugs #2 and #3.

Using a strobe type timing light with the engine running at idle rpm, the F mark should align with the case mark.

Good Fortune!

Alignment of F mark with case mark, as seen with the timing light.

dutchz wrote:

...Now the way you set the timing is by rotating the backing plate...around the crank. Rotate it to the left and it advances ignition (the ignition will spark earlier), rotate it to the right and it will retard (spark later). Finer adjustments can be made by moving the triggers individually but I would leave that alone for now....

Would follow above instructions.

The slotted holes in the backing plate allow movement back and forth, whereby timing may be zeroed in, and then tightening down the backing plate.

Good Fortune!

I think you own Patton and Bill a beer, James! :laugh:

Cold beer in hot San Dieago... who could say no? :laugh:

James, just a thought over here... if your Bike has the DynaTek supplied, insulation-displacement type, blue, splice-connector installed...



... then stop, remove, destroy with BFH and replace with a soldered "Y" connection and heat-shrink tubing... or high quality "1 in-2 out" type connector system.

Don't ask how many, many members have discovered just how intermittant this crap connector can be. :blush:

Best of success,
Bill

Thanks yo all very much for the help I will try to get most of what has been suggested done today , now I need to figure out how to get the laptop out to the garage so I can reference everything . I will check to make sure the Dyna is getting power and take it from there . Just so you understand the previous owner rewired the whole bike and wrapped all the cable together with about 100 rolls of electrical tape so following wires around the bike is very difficult. Bill in my searching and unwrapping I did find what looked to be a 1 into 2 solder. Thanks again and believe me if I get this thing to fire I will buy you all a Case .

So I am getting 12v to the dyna, I then followed from the dyna up to the coils and I am getting 12v volt at the coils and on the wires from the dyna to the coils So my guess is bad coils ? Still no sparks from the coils . Unless I have the wrong spark plugs but dont think so since I looked them up online and had the guy at autozone look it up too. NKG"s. So do I spend the money and buy new coils and if so which ones . 79 kz650b2.... Thanks for the help . James

On the Kawasaki's that came from the factory with electronic ignition there was a module called an "IC Igniter" it actually gave the ignition coils their grounds so the coils would fire, sparking the plugs.

Since you have a Dyna, I'd give them a call about the problem. Perhaps something is not wired right.......

eddyshore wrote:

So I am getting 12v to the dyna, I then followed from the dyna up to the coils and I am getting 12v volt at the coils and on the wires from the dyna to the coils So my guess is bad coils ? Still no sparks from the coils . Unless I have the wrong spark plugs but dont think so since I looked them up online and had the guy at autozone look it up too. NKG"s. So do I spend the money and buy new coils and if so which ones . 79 kz650b2.... Thanks for the help . James

Ignition coils might be okay.

With ignition coil for outside spark plugs, and key switch turned ON, measure voltage between the two terminals on ignition coil.
Use the 17mm fake nut to hand rotate the crankshaft.
When embedded rotor magnet isn't facing the left Dyna module, meter should show voltage, because the coil primary winding is then reaching ground.
When embedded rotor magnet is facing the left Dyna module, meter should not show voltage, because the coil primary winding is then not reaching ground.

Repeat with ignition coil for inside spark plugs, and key switch turned ON, and measure voltage between the two terminals on ignition coil.
Use the 17mm fake nut to hand rotate the crankshaft.
When embedded rotor magnet isn't facing the right Dyna module, meter should show voltage, because the coil primary winding is then reaching ground.
When embedded rotor magnet is facing the right Dyna module, meter should not show voltage, because the coil primary winding is then not reaching ground.

Where the Dyna is grounding and ungrounding the ignition coil primary windings as it's supposed to, an okay ignition coil should fire when its primary winding becomes ungrounded.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

...Where the Dyna is grounding and ungrounding the ignition coil primary windings as it's supposed to...

If there is no true ground return path, then the Battery Ground to Engine connection may be open or high resistance. Find the thick black wire that goes from the Battery Negative (-) to the back-right side of the engine. See picture below:



This connection is often faulty but looks good. Be prepared to repair or replace this Engine Ground wire and or its lug... you would not be the first to have this problem. :blush: :laugh:

Best of success,
Bill

I have a similar problem ..I installed the dyna s on my 79 kz650 and i got power to the coils just no spark I had the bike running and rode it down the street came back and parked it and went back out to start and no spark ..even it is out of time it should still show fire just run like crap so i know its not that i set the timing and had it running good too thats what i can't understand
Thanks
Tim

bukshot wrote:

...similar problem...dyna s...79 kz650 and i got power to the coils just no spark I had the bike running and rode it down the street came back and parked it and went back out to start and no spark....

With ign switch ON, what is voltage at coils?

Even with voltage at coils, Dyna-S requires switched battery voltage through the red wire from some harness source to the Dyna-S modules.
Perhaps a splice has failed where the red wire connects to harness wire.

Good Fortune!