Jumping a bike can be done with a car battery, but the engine for the car will need to be off as voltage transients (fluctuations) will burnout/damage bike electrical systems.
Try this:
The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!
Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from
www.kzrider.com
by member Patton)
1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.
2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.
3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.
4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.
5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.
6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).
7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.
8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.
9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).
10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.
11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.
12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is
www.deoxit.com
It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.
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Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations
1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1†long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼†in diameter.
2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼†long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼†in diameter.
3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.
4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.
5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.
6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade†style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.
7. The reduced sized “Mini†Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.
8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.
9. A list of where to purchase “Blade†style fuses and holders:
www.waytekwire.com
order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/
www.rallylights.com
www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765
www.delcity.net
www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y
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