82 GPz750 Solenoid Question

Hi guys. New to the site. I just picked up a fairly complete 82 GPz750 project bike. I've got the wiring all together now, except I'm not sure where the solenoid mounts and I can't tell from the Clymer manual I have. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Nick

On the two Kawasaki's I've owned(1977 Kz1000,and 1982 GPz1100)the starter solenoid was rubber mounted behind the left side cover below the seat.

Look for two metal tabs about 2-3" apart where the rubber mount would fit holding the solenoid.

Have you gone to either www.bikebandit.com or www.babbitsonline.com to view the diagrams/prints?


Keep this for starter solenoid/starter motor troubleshooting:

Starter Solenoid Checkout

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

Thanks. Looks like I may have a different solenoid than stock. Interestingly enough, I had the chance to buy a wiring harness off the auction site last night, and the solenoid it has fits your suggestion. I'll know more about what I have when my new battery shows up in a few days.
Nick

Here's a pic of the harness the seller said came off a GPZ750 from the same year:

For simplicity, Kawasaki tends to keep all solenoids and turn signal relays fairly close together. In your photo, I see the siver turn signal relays(flashers to some people).

One will operate the 4 way flashers, and the other, the turn signals. On the left handle bar, there should be a red rocker switch above the horn switch, this operates the 4 way flashers.

The flasher relays just push into the rubber holders(I like using some silicone spray to keep rubber bits soft).

Try this for rubber reconditioning:

Successfully Resurrecting Old Rubber Parts
(Found on the internet)

This subject has been broached before but I am happy to report success in revitalizing old rubber.

I have been using a mixture of 30% wintergreen oil (methyl salicylate) and 70% xylene to restore old rubber parts and it works beautifully. This is the same ingredients and proportions for the commercial product Rubber Renue according to the MSDS sheets.

Wintergreen oil is analgesic and liniment for aching muscles and found in most drugstores, pharmacies, health food stores and co-ops.

I gently heated rock hard honda CB carb boots with a heat gun for 30 seconds and dropped them into mason jars with my solution for 12 hours at room temperature. They come soft, pliable and looking good. They have been out of solution for 48 hours now and are still soft and pliable. I soaked smaller rubber parts such as side panel grommets and there extremely soft and may need to soak for less time

Critics are going to argue 'why not buy new ones?' Well, I am restoring four CB's at the moment and if I can reuse perfectly good parts, why throw them and my money away?