73 z1 Trying to get running after 20 years HELP

ok tring to get a 73 z1 back up and running after sitting up for 20 years. The owner is having some issues rembering stuff and that with some elct. issues is killin me. the bike showed no life with a good battery and fuse but after sitting on the seat the lights (cluster) lite up with the key 1 click to the right from off. But they all turn off when 2 clicks to the right.
#1 is run 1 click or 2 clicks to the right?
#2 any common issues with wiring? im also getting no starter , i chcked the kill switch and the starter switch both are good.

start checking for loose connections/bad grounds,is the battery new?

Get some metal polish(I like Basso)and some cotton swabs to clean the fuse clips. Replace if possible the fuses as they have no doubt died.

Look here:

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

yep new battery and fully charged(1st thing i checked). this z1 only has 1 fuse its a glass type and checked out ok with a dvo meter but ill see if i have the right size and swap it.
so i didnt get a reply about the key postion is it (l-R)
off-run-park

or

off-park-run

BadAssRX7 wrote:

yep new battery and fully charged(1st thing i checked). this z1 only has 1 fuse its a glass type and checked out ok with a dvo meter but ill see if i have the right size and swap it.
so i didnt get a reply about the key postion is it (l-R)
off-run-park

or

off-park-run

left to right - off - run - park

thanks that helps alot so now i can go wire by wire and start checkin the harness

Here, maybe this will help....

Have you tried to bump the solenoid with a screwdriver to see if you get anything at all as far as the starter turning over?

Kawickrice wrote:

Have you tried to bump the solenoid with a screwdriver to see if you get anything at all as far as the starter turning over?

wouldnt that mayby break something on the starter if it was frozen would it be an idea to pull the starter and check it out...is it hard to pull the starter..does it come right out or do you have to pull the starter gear before pulling the starter....

Will the motor turn over with the kicker? If yes then it will not hurt it but if the motor is seized it might trash the starter

Old Man Rock wrote:

Here, maybe this will help....

old man rock thank you and i hate you... I scaned a copy of the harness and did a bad coloring job on mine compared to yours. Thanks!

ok the motor will spin just fine... with the kick starter. I did a few things before i gave the ok to the owner to start droping money into this bike. He is the original owner and had it parked in his climate controled garage. I pulled the plugs and mmoed the cyl. and kicked it over slowly a few times with no issues. poped the tank open and found MAJOR issue #1 rusted and goo. Carbs were full of goo also. we also looked at wheels, brakes, bearings, cables. ordered lots of stuff and sent the carbs off to redline i think. well then we striped it to the frame. preped and painted the frame, got the custom mags all blinged out again and dressed with new discs pads and rubber. so skip a bit to last week. its all hooked up and had a good batery but was getting no power to the cluster. i checked the switchs out all were good. The wiring harness was in ruff shape and he found a ebay company z1... that listes aftermarket oem quality new harnesses for it and a good price. so we get that and im removing the oem and installing the new. and i have found 1 issue with the new harness. its got both brown and brown /white stripe wires. the harness doesnt show a br/w wire. untill 75-76 so im scratchin my head wondering what this goes to.all in all the harness is nice. all new dash lights (194 bulbs) the only thing i have found is 3 smaller harness should come in this harness kit.... the headlight doesent, and both battery cables dont.
anybody else use this companys harness and have the br/w wire issue? im hopin to spin it today really id like to b 4 noon... from a test tank after she fires up ill be alot happyier and then its just the small stuff.... idle ajustments, bradied hoses and cables install and the bodywork.