If you are going to keep the gauges etc, it gets a lot more complicated. I only know the core electric for the bike. All of the minutia for every model would be too much to keep track of.
However, it's much easier to add the gauges etc once the main bike is wired correctly, especially if you are going to get aftermarket gauges anyway.
I wouldn't waste time looking at, and copying, the old harness. It would be more informative to just stare at the factory wiring diagram, which you should have handy somewhere.
The schematic I will draw is to show the electric principles, but does not really show the layout. You will determine the layout based on how your bike is setup.
The trickiest part is getting wiring from the frame to the steering without it binding or rubbing. There, it's best to see how the factory did it and do your similarly there. You want the wires to go nearest the turning center to minimize movement.
Don't start cutting anything until you fully understand the principles. Once you do, you won't have to worry about the old harness.
After I post the schematic, ask all the questions you want until it's all straight in your head. Then start to pull the harness (without cutting if possible). I'll probably post it in the Mattylight thread to keep them all in the same place. It will just be the basic start/ignition/charge setup, then later lights gauges etc will attach to the core schematic. That way it will grow in sections so you don't have to learn it all at once.
I'll start a new thread so we stop hijacking this one. Maybe if I sweet talk a mod, I can get one to move some of these posts to the new thread.
Sometimes I will reuse some little bits of the original harness here and there just to save time etc., but only if the little bit is in really good shape. I usually use some of the small sub assemblies, like the wires on the brake light switches, handle bar switches etc. I only really remove the main harness, not all of the small subs unless they are messed up. I also re-configure the main ignition switch so that the contacts get doubled up for redundant backup. But this elimininates the parking light feature, (which most of us don't use).
Mostly I use individual spade connectors. I use the cheap ones available at Menards or Radio Shack. I like the menards ones better. But the trick is to use the right tool. A cheap crimp tool is usually the down fall of the connections. These two tools are expensive, but are way cheaper than paying someone else to do it.
Stripmaster
Ratchet Crimper
I keep the soldering to a minimum on any bit of the harness that may move. I try to keep the soldering only on main harness junctions that will be strapped to the frame so they don't move. Wire is flexible, but will last many time longer if it does not move. The only part that should move is at the steering end.
Topic Author
