Spits back through intake and exhaust

Replaced the stator, and changed the main jets from a 117.5 to a 112.5. I was not able to test as I wanted the silicone on the stator wire grommet to set up good. My son started it and he states it is better as far as the mis-fire, but still the idle hangs and may still be rich as the power is still not as good as before I cleared the accelerator pump galley.

I will have a chance to adjust idle and pilots tonight when I get home, and may pull the advancer apart and clean/lubricate it in case this is causing the idle not to return on it's own.

Will report back what I find, this thing is kickin' my butt!

Mine does idle up high at times when I been riding a while. I think some of my issue may be old plug wires breaking down. I am planning on upgrading the coils and wires soon to match the Dyna ignition.

Decided to clean and lube the advancer last night, and this did not help the "hanging" idle.

It now idles very smooth and no more mising or spitting back through intake/exhaust.

It's running very well, the hanging idle is the only thing left and maybe some fine tuning. It sucks when shifting gears as the idle does not drop like it should.

Maybe the carbs need to be cleaned by ultrasound. I did the passage test I found here about spraying carb cleaner through the different ports and it making sure it comes out the other side, but maybe they are not clear enough. I',m thinking it's got to be something in the pilot circuit.

The pilots absolutely have to be super clean, all the way thru. You should be able to (if you have good eyes), look thru the pilot and see the origional brass bore walls when held to a light.

Tune your mixture screws corectly. Don't just put them at some number of turns out, they have to be tuned to a precise position which should all be just slightly different for each carb. This requires an accurate external tachometer, or a very accurate vacuum guage.

GL!

Turtle wrote:

Decided to clean and lube the advancer last night, and this did not help the "hanging" idle...running very well, the hanging idle is the only thing left...sucks when shifting gears as the idle does not drop like it should...thinking it's got to be something in the pilot circuit.

Would be more suspicious of air leak,
or hanging/sticking throttle (throttle cable, throttle assembly at handlebar, and/or throttle assembly at carbs), anything resisting pull of carb return spring.

Perhaps not enough slack in throttle cables, maybe a frayed throttle cable, or crud inside the handlebar throttle assembly or between throttle grip tube and handlebar. Could be grip itself rubbing against end of handlebar.

With engine off, when slightly opening throttle and then closing it, should be an audible "click" as the carb bell crank meets end of the thumb idle screw.

Another test is to remove the throttle cables from the carb end, and with engine running, manually the carb bell crank to raise rpm and then let the carb spring pull it back to idle position. Bell crank should readily close against the thumb idle screw.

If idle races when certain that the throttle slides are fully closing down, it's probably an air leak. Or possibly a too lean pilot circuit (which might be resolved by adjusting the pilot screws to a richer position).

Good Fortune!

It's been raining here all day:( But I took it out anyway to get it fully warmed up.

TeK9iNe, I had been adjusting the airs crews, and I did some more adjusting and it is better now. The idle still hangs but will come down on it's own now, still not perfect by any means but much better.


Patton, Double checked the throttle for return to stop, and it does so all the time, even when at high idle, and I can pull back on it by twisting the opposite way and there is no change. Also to check for air leaks I took the straw off the "flammable" brake cleaner, and if I hold the spray at the carb boot to head location for a good 5+ seconds I can get the idle to drop, not raise but drop and actually kill it if I hold it there longer, maybe 8-10 seconds.

Now this is a lot of brake cleaner. So yes there appears to be a small leak and with new carb boots. If this leak is doing most of the high idle, than I guess the intake flanges have to be machined flat.

Definitely improved, thanks for the help!