Spits back through intake and exhaust

"Noticeable problems:
1. I have what looks to be weak spark.
2. Slight vacuum leak
3. Cylinder 2 not getting up to temp.
4. Had to move starter switch wire one time to get it to turn over, maybe something here for powering the coils.
5. The kill switch does not shut bike off, maybe a function of running the coil mod?
6. I adjusted the floats by measurement only, could not get the clear tube method to work by using drain nipple and loosening drain plug, have to get the measurment tool. Only slightly adjusted number 1 and 2 a little lower.
7. New AGM battery, would think I would have more than 11.88 Volts with key/headlight on, maybe a charging system check is in order."[/color

Here is what I have done:

7. The battery is fine when tested today 12.85V, and 12.33 with key and lights on, and 12.9 running at idle with lights on and 13.4V revving motor to 2500-3000 rpm.

6. Floats adjusted carbs 1/2 are 3mm below gasket and carbs 3/4 are 5mm below.

5. Took apart switch housing for kill switch/start button, and looked at wires and look OK

4. Noticed some open live wires with key on behind headlight. I put electrical tape on them.

3. Exhaust primary #2 still running about half the temperature of the other primaries.

2. Idle does hang, I think this is most of the problem, I can increase idle at carb boots on cylinders 1 & 2 with brake cleaner. The rubber seems like it's in good shape, been parked indoors most of it's life. I will try some high temp silicone between head and boot as this is where the leak is.

1. Spark really does not look that bad, it's blue to purple and about .5mm-1mm thick, all plugs look to be the same quality of spark. 3 of the wires are .6 K Ohms, and the #4 is 1K Ohms.

I could not find the leak down tester at work, it still could be a valve issue. I think I have a cheap compression tester, I'll test after I fix the vacuum leak.

Interesting numbering order

The charging system is generally around 13+ at idle, and about 14.5 when maxed out 4000rpm and higher.

Might want to performa a stator check.

What position are your mixture screws in?

Fix all vacuum leaks before anything else, of course.

Notice live wires hanging bare... :huh: What kind of condition is this bike in :silly:



Dont forget to clean up your wiring anyways. Connectors, switches, bulb sockets, GROUNDS!
Make sure they're all clean and tight.

GL.

Will check the stator

Mixture screws are best at 2 turns out.

The wires must be from the original turn signals, purchased the bike without turn signals.

Silicone did not work as well as I hoped, it is better but I can still get the idle to go up with brake cleaner at the boot to head. I washed the boots and the mating surface of the boots are hard.

Here you can see one of the boots has cracks on the mating surface.




Here is a video of it running:
s96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/T4Turtle...current=P1000402.flv

Will check the stator later, too nice outside must go for a ride. I ordered new carb boots from Z1.

These are also nice.

Click > Vac plugs from Z1E

Good Fortune!

The new carb boots come with these same vac plugs

New boots came in yesterday and I put them on last night and still runs the same.

Idle still hangs when you come to a stop, have to release the clutch a little to load the motor then the idle drops down to normal.

Also when cold it starts right up with the choke on, but you can not give it any gas until its good and warmed up, it will start to die if you try to rev it at all. Once warm you can rev it and ride it.

Runs real strong, and does not miss a beat when on the gas, it's just the low rpm spits, and the idle hanging that is annoying.

Also I saw somewhere here while searching about o-rings on the air screws, mine do not have these, not sure if my model should have them or not.

So does the VM28 carbs pilot screws originally have o-rings? I tried spraying brake cleaner in the screw ports at idle and nothing is gettting through here.

Also I found a discusion talking about the port from carb bowl #2 to the accelerator pump, pulled the carbs AGAIN and sure enough this port was clogged. Now with it cleared I can rev the motor cold and pull the choke of a lot sooner.

I was trying to adjust the idle screws and took it for a ride to get up to operating temperature and it feels like it may be rich now with the 117.5 main jet, not nearly as fas as it was.

Also noticed the battery was not working had it tested at a AutoZone and it tested bad. I could kick start it but the starter was clicking, tested it and had about 10V at idle and 12.5V at 3500+ RPM. The battery is at Batteries plus being charged/looked at to get warrantied, but I wonder if maybe the charging system is a little weak. Will have to retest the charging system once I get a known good battery in it.

I am running a 20 pilot and a 117.5 main jet incase I did not cover this, I think with the acc pump working now I may need to go down a couple.

I have a bad stator. 2 of the yellow wires are around 50V AC and the other is at 2V AC.

My KZ1000 is doing the same thing. It will start right up but doesnt like to take the gas until it gets warmed up. I normally have to start out with the choke on and then reach down and shut it off. It skips and pops a little until it gets warmed up then runs Ok, still a little low end pop but about 3000 rpm comes alive like a totally different bike. I would like it to run as good at low rpm as it does above 3000.

Sounds like the same issue. Does it idle high when you come to a stop?