starter button/spark problem

I am once again happily in the KZ business. I picked up a low milage 1980 KZ750 H1 that someone had started to hack on. It would fire, just not on all cylinders. So I removed and cleaned the carbs, changed the plugs and tried to start her again. With the new plugs she initially hit on all four cylinders until the starter button was released. I tried to start her again and kept the starter button depressed leading to a sweet running KZ. Now I need to track down this wiring Gremlin and I am hoping some of you KZ geniuses will have some ideas.

Summation of my problem: Bike only gets good spark to all four cylinders when starter button is depressed.

Thanks,
Pugsley

Check at the starter solenoid,there should be a wire going to the bike's ignition system(probably WHITE with RED stripe).

The solenoid should have the energizing coil wires(usually bullet connectors) and then heavier gauge wires/cables going from the RED Positive(+ battery terminal and then on to the starter motor.

The two circuits are not connected together, so unless someone has moved the wiring around(maybe replaced the solenoid)and re-connected the wires wrong) this would be where I'd look first.

__________________________________________________________

Starter Solenoid Checkout

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

Thanks MFolks

The problem is that the previous owner has almost the entire wiring harness opened up and it looks like a plate of spagheti.

pugsley

Here's some good, non-sticky harness/loom tape:

Dry Vinyl Tape From Tape Brothers
www.tapebrothers.com

Dry Vinyl Tapes are non-adhesive plasticized polyvinyl chloride film tape. Easy unwinding characteristics - tape clings firmly to it’s own backing for tight wrap. High elongation and good strength to permit trouble-free binding of wiring harnesses for the automotive industry. Dry vinyl tape also used for plating applications- high stretch, good “cling” characteristics and great conformability provide for superior masking in hard chrome and other plating applications.

DVT-76B 2 in. x 250 ft. Black Dry Vinyl Tape
2 in. x 250 ft. Black Dry Vinyl Tape
Our Price: $6.54 Per Roll

www.wiringharness.com
• Non-Adhesive Vinyl Harness Tape, made to the original mil-thickness.
• Just wrap it tightly around the wires and knot the end.
• 100 foot roll is enough to do 3 to 4 harnesses complete.
• Available in three different widths, as original.
• Correct for all years (1955 to Present).

Part # Description Price
R0058272 3/4" Vinyl Harness Tape, 100 foot roll $12.00
R0058276 1" Vinyl Harness Tape, 100 foot roll $13.00
R0067108 1-1/4" Vinyl Harness Tape, 100 foot roll $15.00



www.keefeperformance.com/silicone_tape.html
"36 Foot" roll of Self bonding silicone tape
High temperature silicone tape
This Mil-spec silicone tape is Rated up to 500+ degrees

Made of silicone rubber, this self fusing silicone tape will protect most all electrical wiring, connectors, hoses, spark plug boots and more from extremely high temperatures. The self vulcanizing process automatically begins when the two sides of the tape are put into contact. A catalyst on one side of the tape begins the bonding process as soon as wrapping takes place.
great for all electrical wiring, harness, cable, and hose applications
Colors: Red and Black
Exceeds MIL AA-59163 TYPE 1 & 2
ASTM-D 2137 / -65C
ASTM D-412
ASTM D-149
Electrical, Home, Auto, Truck, RV, Marine, Motorcycle, Military, Commercial, Industrial, Generator


In the U.S., the Radio Shack stores sell 1/4"I.D. black spiral wrap that will help organize some of the wiring.

Smaller diameter spiral wrap along with heat shrink tubing
will make working on the wiring bundle in the future easier.

First assure kill switch is in RUN position when attempting to start the engine.

Could begin inspection at right hand switch gear, because the starter button area works in conjunction with the kill switch.

Wire (yellow/red) from kill switch is supposed to feed positive battery voltage to the ignition coils when the ignition switch is ON and the kill switch is in RUN position.

If needed, may download wiring diagram.
Scroll down to wiring diagram, then download, after first clicking here > On-site Diagram

Good Fortune!

The yellow-red wire goes through the kill switch to the starter switch. When holding in the starter switch everything is fine. It is when you let go of the starter switch that the bike is barely getting any spark.

thanks for the links

pugsley

Here's an excerpt from the oem wiring diagram:



Good Fortune!

Thanks for all the help. As hard as tried to diagnose the problem the hacked up wiring harness really only left me the option of swapping in a better harness. After raping my '83 of it's wiring all is well.

Pugsley