Startr relay problem?

Hi

My starter relay has begun to click all the time I try to start the bike. Before it didn't at all, then more end more.

I fully recharged the battery, but still clicking from th starter relay. I can still use the kick to start teh bike.

My problem is that my manual only covers the B1 model 1976-77. I have B2 -78. And they changed the to a two phases generator and a combined regulator/rectifier. So I can't use the instructions to measure these parts.

Any suggestions regarding the starter relay click sounds?

Anyone who has know where I could download the correct instructions for electrical measure instructions?

/Martin

Starter Solenoid Checkout

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

2 questions:
1. Has Martin fixed problem and what was the solution. Guess that was 2 into 1 questions.
2. When it was suggested to jump contacts on solenoid, should the key be turned on only and then attempt?

Thanks,
Roger

bowtie39 wrote:

2 questions:
1. Has Martin fixed problem and what was the solution. Guess that was 2 into 1 questions.
2. When it was suggested to jump contacts on solenoid, should the key be turned on only and then attempt?

Thanks,
Roger

Not sure about number 1, but I would just replace solenoid.

Doesnt matter if key is on to jump solenoid. It will still bridge the current to the starter right from the battery, and start spinning over.

GL.

Thanks GL. I get nothing when jumping the contacts so will go after a solenoid.

Roger

If you jump across the 2 large posts at the solenoid with something like a socket extension, and the starter does nothing? It would either be the starter motor or a bad battery connection as stated earlier.