WG Coil Mod — 10A inline fuse blows prematurely

As the title suggest, I performed the WG Coil Mod due to weak spark. After replacing my coils and points with Dyna products (Dyna 3 ohm green coils and Dyna S electrical ignition) I got the thing running again. ( ) The fun stops there unfortunately.

I get two blocks down the road and the inline fuse (10A) blows by the time I hit third gear. Any ideas?

Initially I had the ground wire from the relay bolted to the case, as per spec. But then a friend insisted to just put it on the negative terminal of the battery as this is being grounded anyhow.

The conversation went something like this:
Me- "Are you sure that's OK? Like, are you sure it's the same thing?"
Him- "Yeah man, totally"
Me- "Well . . . if you say so"

Just wondering if this maybe has something to do with the problem.

Generally speaking timing is a tad off but other than that she runs pretty great. Good power. Starts immediately, no choke necessary.

Final point, after pulling into the driveway I noticed a fair amount of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Mixture problem? I assume this question is for another thread but I'm just not sure which one. Carbs maybe?

Thanks a bunch guys. Cheers.

Go back on this web sight and please review the other posts about this mod. Most of us will tell you to get rid of it and fix the problem right. This mod creates more problems in many situations than it cures.

alexnelson wrote:

...inline fuse (10A) blows by the time I hit third gear. Any ideas?
Initially I had the ground wire from the relay bolted to the case, as per spec. But then a friend insisted to just put it on the negative terminal of the battery as this is being grounded anyhow...wondering if this maybe has something to do with the problem....

Supposed to be two 10A fuses and one 20A fuse.
Would assure the blown 10A fuse was in the 10A slot (not the 20A slot).
Maybe the old fuse failed. Could try a new fuse to determine whether it also blows.
Would also verify integrity of connections where fuse inserts.
If new fuse also blows, would suspect a short.

Depending on which 10A fuse, could trace the wiring diagram to help identify possible short locations.

Grounding to engine is equivalent to grounding to battery negative terminal, where terminal has a good ground connection via negative battery cable to engine.

Good Fortune!

alexnelson wrote:

As the title suggest, I performed the WG Coil Mod due to weak spark. After replacing my coils and points with Dyna products (Dyna 3 ohm green coils and Dyna S electrical ignition) I got the thing running again. ( ) The fun stops there unfortunately.

I get two blocks down the road and the inline fuse (10A) blows by the time I hit third gear. Any ideas?

Initially I had the ground wire from the relay bolted to the case, as per spec. But then a friend insisted to just put it on the negative terminal of the battery as this is being grounded anyhow.

The conversation went something like this:
Me- "Are you sure that's OK? Like, are you sure it's the same thing?"
Him- "Yeah man, totally"
Me- "Well . . . if you say so"

Just wondering if this maybe has something to do with the problem.

Generally speaking timing is a tad off but other than that she runs pretty great. Good power. Starts immediately, no choke necessary.

Final point, after pulling into the driveway I noticed a fair amount of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Mixture problem? I assume this question is for another thread but I'm just not sure which one. Carbs maybe?

Thanks a bunch guys. Cheers.

On my bike: the main power comes in through a 20A fuse and the ignition is fed off that line, so you should never blow a 10A fuse because of the ignition.

Is it possible you tapped the power for your ignition off one of the 10A lines which already have most of that current "used up" for lighting or some other load?

That would certainly cause it to blow. As I understand it, the Dynas use more current than stock ignition.


White smoke sounds like burning oil.

Don't know about the fuse problem but the white smoke may just be from moisture. It sounds like your bike sat for a little bit? Condensation will build up inside the crank cases, as the motor heats up the water will boil off, hence the white smoke. This should disappear after the first proper ride (say half hour at freeway speeds). On short rides the motor never gets hot enough to get rid of all the moisture.
If the problem persists it may be something else, but for now I wouldn't worry too much about it, it's pretty common after winter.

The coil mod only a bandaid, that helps if your getting more than .5 volt drop from battery to coils.

Your wiring diagram is HERE!

WHICH 10AMP FUSE is blowing?

Make sure that your electrical connectors are ALL cleaned properly, else the bike may not run correctly.
Use a small sharp tool to take apart all the connections and file them shiney new. Then make sure they go together tightly. You'll be surprised at what a difference it will make!

Don't worry about smoke till after you've blasted the bike around for an hour. It will likely dissapear.

GL!

The electrical contact cleaner/preservative I use is a brand called "De-oxit" made by Caig Labs.

I use it on the bikes electrical contacts,my cordless phones charging cradles, and the patch cords on the entertainment center.

Their website is www.deoxit.com and can be bought at Radio Shack stores in the U.S. and most electronic supply stores.

ditch the mod.....

Whats wrong with the mod? Most cars and bikes nowadays use relays to power all sorts of things, I don't see how this simple mod could screw anything up. I did it, it worked great, and I've never had an issue. You want as high a voltage to your coils as possible, and this mod guarantees it.

I do the mod on every bike i buy if the voltage is low. I do clean the connector also.

I want to start the bikes to see if the bike is worth putting any money into or part out.

I just hate to chase a electrical gremlin on a bike that will be in a hundred pieces the next day. Roy

I've had very good results using the WG Coil Mod. I've installed it on 6 of my bikes.
Some folks on this site don't think it works, but it does what WG said it would. It provides the ignition system with the highest voltage possible in a reliable manor. It was never touted as a cure for other electrical problems, a fix for a flat tire or a way to whiten your teeth. This mod works as stated in WG's how-to.
I also return the ground directly to the battery negative terminal, so that's not the problem. I run a 20 amp fuse to power the relay, your fix could be as simple as installing a bigger fuse.

Good Luck,
Jon

My inline fuse is 10A I believe, haven't blown one yet.