please help

here is my prob i rewired my whole bike useing the barebones wire its a 1980 kz750 E everything seems to be working it wants to kick over but i am getting no fire from the spark plugs if anyone has any suggestions on what i should try please let me know

sdharger wrote:

here is my prob i rewired my whole bike useing the barebones wire its a 1980 kz750 E everything seems to be working it wants to kick over but i am getting no fire from the spark plugs if anyone has any suggestions on what i should try please let me know

What is voltage at coil primary terminal?

Good Fortune!

not shur i dont have a voltage reader i will have to go by one today if the voltage isto low were do you think my prob is?

Some checkout steps:

1.Remove gas tank.

2.Obtain either a digital or analog multimeter.

3.Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch on the right handlebar.

4.Set the multimeter if analog(the type with the pointer and muliple scales)to D.C. volts, range of 50.

5.If the mutimeter is digital, set it again to D.C. volts, range of 50,or 100.

6.Using the RED probe of the multimeter, check the RED wire on the coils.

7.Using the BLACK probe of the multimeter,find a good ground on the frame, or go to the NEGATIVE(-) post of the battery.

8.If you have zero volts, then start checking back on your conections until you find the voltage.

Post back your findings.............

sdharger wrote:

...if the voltage is too low where do you think my prob is?

Would begin by first assuring battery is up to snuff.
Fluid levels.
Fully charged.
Specific gravity tested (little floating balls test).
Load tested (usually available for free at local auto-supply store).

And would also assure clean snug cable connections at battery terminals, and where negative cable attaches (grounds) to engine.

With above okay, the next priority imo would be to assure that the full battery voltage is actually reaching the coils.

Then the ignition system may be further diagnosed as indicated (coils, secondary loop, connections, plugs, wiring, timing, signals from points or pick-up coils, etc.).

Good Fortune!

got a voltage meter and its reading 2volts at the coils and used a ohms meter and scaled the meter if that tells ya any thing

sdharger wrote:

got a voltage meter and its reading 2volts at the coils and used a ohms meter and scaled the meter if that tells ya any thing

What's voltage across battery terminals?

Good Fortune!

When checking the ignition coils for resistance,the multimeter will use an internal battery, do not check voltage in the "Ohms" or horseshoe(Omega) setting as this can destroy the meter.

Disconnect any primary(small wires) from the coils to avoid getting a reading that may be affected by other electrical circuits.

If uncertain about the voltage being checked, go to a high setting and progress down. An analog meter(the kind with the pointer and scales) usually reads the most accurate in the mid-scale of the display.

Some of the more high end digital meters will auto-range(not requiring you to change scales) but you still have to change from "OHMS to VOLTS" when testing.

yea i checked my bat same getting about 2 volts i think from painting the frame i am not getting a good ground gonna grind a spot on the frame and re-ground the battery hopfuly that will work its a new battery so should be fine but what should the coil voltage be at ?

sdharger wrote:

yea i checked my bat same getting about 2 volts i think from painting the frame i am not getting a good ground gonna grind a spot on the frame and re-ground the battery hopfuly that will work its a new battery so should be fine but what should the coil voltage be at ?

It's best to ground battery at oem position on rear of engine. Because the ignition grounds to the engine.

Coil voltage should be same as voltage across battery terminals. Look for 12+ volts with engine not running, 13+ volts at idle, and 14+ volts at 4000 rpm. But slightly less is acceptable.

Good Fortune!