Battery not charging

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03 Apr 2010 08:55 #358148 by fireguy55
Battery not charging was created by fireguy55
Not too long ago I got a 75 KZ400, and recently I put a battery in it. It has been running (although not good) Then just 2 days ago my battery died and nothing will turn on. I'm thinking it must be a stator charging problem. How would I go about checking my theory?

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03 Apr 2010 09:21 #358150 by anarki650
Replied by anarki650 on topic Battery not charging
Charge your battery with an external charger and get the bike to fire up. Use a multimeter and check the voltage at the battery. That will tell you if you're getting any/enough voltage out of your charging system and set you in the right direction. Do you have a clymers manual for your bike? That should have processes to check the other components of the system so you're not shooting blind as you try to repair.

09 Kawasaki ER6n
77 kz650b1 cafe rebirth project
"Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube, that's why God made fast motorcycles..."
Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Omaha NE

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03 Apr 2010 10:00 #358154 by fireguy55
Replied by fireguy55 on topic Battery not charging
I have a manual that was printed off of the internet. But I will definately try that and hopefully it will give me some answers. Also, is there supposed to be oil in the dynamo cover where the stator is? I would think that it would be in there to cool down the stator, but then again I'm not an expert by any means

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03 Apr 2010 11:10 - 03 Apr 2010 11:12 #358172 by TeK9iNe
Replied by TeK9iNe on topic Battery not charging
Deffinately start with a known good/charged battery.

Open-circuit (quiescent) at full charge: 12.6 V to 12.8 V (2.10-2.13V per cell)
Open-circuit at full discharge: 11.8 V to 12.0 V
Loaded at full discharge: 10.5 V.
Continuous-preservation (float) charging: 13.4 V for gelled electrolyte; 13.5 V for AGM (absorbed glass mat) and 13.8 V for flooded cells

Yes thats right, if the battery reads 12V after charging/resting ITS DEAD. 12.6 or higher ONLY, or get new battery.

Then start troubleshooting the charging circuits.

Run bike and place voltmeter across battery. Should be 13+volts when just above idle, and around 15volts from 4000rpm and any higher. If the voltage continues to go up, your regulator/rectifier is dead - replace.

If the voltage never increases, then:
Disconnect the three yellow stator wires behind the left side sprocket cover.
Engine off - use ohm/continuity meter. connect to ground, then touch each of the three wires. There should be no response at all from the meter! If it suddenly reads 0, or any other number, the stator is DEAD - replace.

With engine running, an AC Voltmeter should read around 50VAC when you connect the meter to any pairing of the connectors and rev the engine to about 4000. If not, well - replace.

GL!

B)

Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator

79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors ;)
Last edit: 03 Apr 2010 11:12 by TeK9iNe.

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